But as the gastropub enters its third year of trading under new management, its turnover has quadrupled, and it is the Hampshire leader for local food.
Everything from replacing Italian olive oil with rapeseed oil, from Andover, to Devon lentils and Cornish tea, the West Meon pub operates a stringent policy: 'If not from Hampshire, then from the south of England; and if not the south of England, then not at all.'
The decision to 'go native' and opt for an all-local menu was a big gamble, said owner David Thomas – but it soon became clear they would reap the dividends of the market surge for low-food-miles produce.
He said: 'I had been a customer here for three years, and the place had become quite tired.
'We were getting quite fed up with plastic, pre-fab-type pubs, and wanted to transform it into a more traditional place.
'We were also quite fed up with places advertising themselves as selling local fare, when they only have a tiny amount of local ingredients.
'We set our sights high – a 100 per cent local kitchen.
'It could all have fallen flat on its face, but we're pleased to see it's really taken off. It was good timing, because the demand for local produce has really shot up.'
He and business partner Richard Taylor purchased the pub on an 18-year lease for £90,000 in 2006, when it had a turnover of around £170,000.
This year turnover stands at more than £700,000 and, after investments, including top new chef Gareth Longhurst and an outdoor kitchen, Mr Thomas said he expected to see 2008's operating profits exceed £100,000.
Susie Carter, membership officer with Hampshire Fare, which represents growers and producers, said the pub was a model.
She said: 'It's the leader, certainly in the county, if not in the UK.
'There are others who say we source locally but often when you look they're not always what they're cracked up to be.
'People are becoming more aware of sustainability issues, and the appetite for local food is developing as people demand higher-quality food, because the best we can get is right on doorstep.
'Also, because of crises like BSE and foot-and-mouth, there's the understanding that food should be traceable.
'If you eat in a nameless chain pub, you're not going to have that, but with The Thomas Lord they can probably tell you the cow it came from.'