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Friday, 16th May 2008

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Brasserie in the Park, Chichester



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Chichester Festival Theatre bosses have finally bitten the bullet and ousted Compass as caterers, calling in a new outfit which also looks after London's famed Old Vic Theatre.
Why Compass – originally called Factory Canteens – was ever allowed to cling on to the contract is worthy of a 'how not to run theatre catering' seminar, with audiences simply deciding to eat elsewhere.
Mass catering has now been replaced by a delightful small company, Orion Management, whose two owners are very much in evidence in the restaurant.
The revamp has finally added a dash of theatrical panache to the large space. Designed by JPD Projects, a local company, the hexagonal restaurant exudes confidence and colour thanks to mint green, burgundy and brown tables and chairs, plants, good lighting and smart bar.
It is housed in the building opposite the main theatre, home to the 200-seater Minerva Theatre.
The two or three-course menu at £15.50 and £20 offers four differing starter, main and dessert courses. Orion is also in charge of food in the upstairs bar and in the main auditorium across the road.
A seafood bar will be open when the main theatre goes live with The Cherry Orchard with Diana Rigg on May 15. Kick off with a puy lentil, green pepper and tomato broth or a startlingly bravura beetroot cured salmon with a grain mustard and horseradish emulsion amongst its starters.
Move on to Cajun spiced chicken, jacket fries, green chilli and pineapple salsa or organic Wallop wood bangers and mash with shallot gravy, the remaining two choices being a fish and a vegetarian option.
Executive head chef Matthew Wilder has developed a menu which has to wing its way to possibly 200-300 theatre-goers in a nanosecond, the service time frame a limited one before the curtain goes up at 7.30pm, those with tickets for the Minerva having an extra 15 minutes to nurse a final coffee or sip of wine. Does it work? Has Orion managed to dispel the bad taste of Compass?
My starter, Tataki of Beef with a plum dipping sauce, came hurtling my way within 10 minutes of my being seated and was accompanied by a variety of good breads, butter, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a glass of water.
Served on skewers, the lean, hot, pink beef was excellent but just needed the original Japanese tataki ingredients to make it live up to its full potential.
Oven roasted sea bream with saffron mash and sauce vierge was next up, the fish knowledgeably well cooked. It was draped over a rather messy overload of mash, squeaky beans and tomato dice but the mash was one of the best, most dense I have had the pleasure of eating, thanks to the judicious choice of potato.
A raspberry and lemon thyme brulee, served in a terracotta dish, was luscious with a tap-tap sugar cover revealing some splendid raspberries.
And, yes, the 7.45pm curtain-up timing was easily met by my co-diners, last year's dining and paying fiasco averted by good service and attention to detail.
Well, mostly. The wine list's 23 wines are by the glass or bottle, but the wrong wine was served – a Spanish white which didn't make the grade. That aside, Orion has improved hugely the standards of catering demanded by theatre visitors and passing trade.
Finally, the theatre is back on track, those with long memories recalling the glory days of the Danish open sandwiches served in the now-defunct Gunters bar. Why, with time, when the kitchen settles down, it may even match this golden catering era. Bravo, theatre board, for finally biting that essential culinary bullet. With willing service, my bill came to £24.40 not including a tip.

Brasserie In The Park at the Chichester Festival Theatre, Oaklands Park, Chichester. 01243 782219.
Open: From 10am Mon-Sat and one hour post-performance, two hours pre-show on Sundays.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Yes.
How to get there: Exit at the Tesco roundabout on the A27, following the signs to the theatre which is to be found at the Northgate roundabout. Parking in large paying car park is adjacent to the theatre.


Polly Woodruff and Dan Rawlings, from Havant: 'I'm amazed by the fast service and pleasant food and hope they can manage the good pace when both theatres are running,' Polly said, adding, 'I enjoyed my asparagus with quail's eggs and chicken, all the food really hot too.'
'I'm delighted to see such good wines, a Sancerre by the glass a real find,' Dan said.

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  • Last Updated: 09 May 2008 11:33 AM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Portsmouth
 
 

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