These small portions of hot or cold food, the equivalent of mezze, antipasti or hors d'oeuvres, are served on small plates with a glass of wine, beer or sherry. The word is derived, it is said, from the Andalucian word meaning 'cover.' One of the joys of Spain is tapas bar-hopping, comparing each bar's culinary prowess, a more alluring version of a pub crawl where a packet of crisps or nuts is all you'll get to soak up the alcohol. If you're in a tapas bar for the evening, choose a selection to share, suggests the chef at El Castizo.
Madrid-born Diana Sanchez and her English partner James Pound recently opened the tapas bar in Chichester, its menu the genuine article. They took over the basement of a building just east of the city centre last year, the décor in the vaulted room one of simplicity; colourful open fans on its curved walls, a guitar leaning against a chair, Spanish music adding to the atmosphere.
They hire Spanish-speaking staff too, James heading up the front of house in professional style, Diana in charge of the small kitchen.
Here is the tapas of the Spanish high street, dishes that Diana learnt from her restaurant worker mother and cook grandmother. Albondigas en salsa de tomate (pork and beef meatballs with a tomato sauce); huevos rellenos (eggs with tuna, olives and tomatoes); boquerones (whitebait); magro con tomate (duck with tomato); salchichas en vino tinto (chipolata sausages in red wine) and other tapas are served in simple terracotta dishes.
Vegetarians are well-served too with 12 choices from patatas bravas (potatoes with chillis), gazpacho and tortilla de patata (a flat potato omelette). Paella comes in three sizes: £3.95 for one, £7 for two and £20 for six.
Friends with whom I have shared platters of tapas in Spain came along, a light, sharing meal after a film at the Chichester Cinema at New Park around the corner. We ordered six tapas – including meatballs, potatoes, chipolatas and anchovies, all around £3.50 per dish – and shared a bottle of Spanish red.
Without a doubt the albondigas were the star of the show, the tomato sauce enriched by cream, the blending of pork and beef, adding a lusciousness. One in the party tried to corner the crispy without, soft within potato cubes, our determined long armed forks however foiling his dastardly plot. A chorizo dish in wine equally pleased but verduras a la parilla, a mixed vegetable dish of asparagus, tomato, pepper and onion, was too wilted and dry to win us over, an anchovy dish too vinegary.
Mr Winner of the Lush Potatoes finished his meal with a fine pannacotta, I with a bitingly good manchego cheese. Bread comes without asking as does a jug of water, these further indicating fine Iberian hospitality at work.
The couple's ethos is to offer authentic smaller tapas, or raciones, without changing them to suit British tastes. Tapas, they argue, isn't a three course meal but a few sharing plates with wine and relaxation. Our bill for three came to £40.55 not including a tip.

El Castizo,24 St Pancras, Victoria Court, Chichester. 01243 788988 www.elcastizo.co.uk
Open: Midday-2pm and 6pm-11pm Sun-Sat. Closed Mon.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
How to get there: Take the A 27 going to Chichester and exit at the Sainsbury's roundabout. Take the first exit at the next small roundabout on to Westhampnett Road which becomes St Pancras, the restaurant at the end of this road just before the one-way system. Parking in adjacent car park on evenings and weekends is free, otherwise park on St Pancras and walk through to the restaurant via its courtyard and terrace.

Diners' View
Marie Collinson and Jake Arniston, from Havant: 'We often come to the Chichester Cinema for its wonderful films and decided to try this place as it was recommended by friends,' Marie said. 'We loved the choices, the atmosphere and the friendly, well-informed staff, Jake added, 'our paella and chorizo in cider on the list for our next visit.'