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Friday, 16th May 2008

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Landars, Haslar Marina



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The restaurant's website boasts: 'Landers is about enjoying the company, the food, the surrounds and the friendly atmosphere. It's about local people, local produce and being part of the community.'
That's a fine claim by Landers' owners, Andy Dervan and Craig Beastall, who took over the business by Haslar Marina a year ago.
The website tells me that Craig, who has 20 years of crafting high-quality cuisine, joined forces with Andy, whose pedigree covers Southampton and Windsor.
To my eye they have done little in the way of transforming Landers. The bar is still in place at the entrance, as are those familiar brown sofas.
The dining area is bright and breezy thanks to blond wood tables and monochrome yachting photographs. You are left in no doubt that this is a sailing venue open to the general public.
The menu covers a lot of ground. 'Lite bites' include breaded mushrooms with blue cheese dip, cream garlic mussels and roasted- vegetable soup of the day.
There are sandwiches, such as prawn with marie rose, tuna mayo and bacon and brie.
Listed as main courses are beefburger with chilli cheese, goats' cheese with red onions in a tartlet, seared salmon with lemon pancetta, potatoes and wilted spinach and linguini with roast red onion.
The dinner menu does a chicken liver tartlet with roast garlic, vegetable risotto and vegetable spring rolls, roast Solent sea bass and Hampshire venison.
Many dishes have roasted vegetables attached to them, so they are obviously an accessory the kitchen is proud to offer.
I chose to start with a frittata, and follow with salmon with pancetta.
For those unfamiliar with frittata, this egg dish with vegetables is first cooked on top of the stove like an omelette, then either finished off under the grill or in the oven to firm up the eggs.
At Landers, it is a grey, soggy mass of eggs. The almost raw onions, flabby courgettes and aubergines were inedible, and it was covered in a grey soup best described by paint colour charts as milky zinc-flint. I sent it back. In nine years of writing this column, this dish has to be one of the worst culinary car crashes I have come across. With only three of the 15 or so tables taken, it beggars belief that it took 30 minutes to throw this food together.
Someone in Landers' kitchen continued to take his eye off the ball. The fatty salmon main course was placed on top of barely-cooked pancetta and halved new potatoes which swam in fat. The spinach, instead of being just wilted as billed, was slimy.
My queasiness was abated by the smart, delightful service. It seems Landers' staff really care about their customers. My young waiter couldn't have been more concerned about my enjoyment. His professionalism was at odds with the standard of cooking.
The disappointments continued with my dessert, a warm mango tart with chilli ice cream. It was a pastry disc meanly covered with thin slices of mango. The ice cream tasted only of cream. I ate most of it out of sheer hunger, but the kitchen still gets the How Best Not to Cook Award.
My advice to sailors and landlubbers alike is to keep sailing by. My bill came to just under £20 less a decent tip, and the offending frittata was not charged for.

Landers Bar and Restaurant, Haslar Marina, Haslar Road, Gosport. (023) 9258 8810. www.landersbar.co.uk
Open: Midday-3pm Mon-Sat for lunch and 7pm-9pm Mon-Thu for dinner (10pm Fri/Sat). Midday-5pm Sun.
Food: *
Service: *****
Atmosphere: ***
Disabled access: Yes.
How to get there: From Fareham, follow the A32 into Gosport. At the Fort Brockhurst roundabout take the 3rd exit at the second roundabout, and follow Military Road. At the Cocked Hat Roundabout turn left onto Privett Road and follow for approximately one mile into the one- way system. Take the lefthand lane and join Bury Road and then after approx 3/4 mile cross the mini roundabout to join South Street. After approximately 500 yards turn right (by the George & Dragon Pub) into Haslar Road. Landers is approximately 400 yards on the right, through the entrance to Haslar marina, marked by the two green buoys. Parking in paid car park.

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  • Last Updated: 22 February 2008 8:49 AM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Portsmouth
 
 
  

 
 


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