Mr Crab, caught by fish-lover Paul the day before I sat down to eat at a table next to the tank, fought his corner by my left shoulder. I watched as the rubber-banded blue lobsters took exception to this recent interloper's presence.
Paul, also owner of Kitch 'n D'Or, goes in for distinct statements.
While Kitch 'n D'Or pays homage to France, the Dolphin widens its range to embrace southern Europe and north Africa.
The Dolphin is a spacious building of character and the Dickensian entrance has dark recesses to escape to. A coal fire adds to the atmosphere. Past the long bar is the restaurant, mostly brown in colour, with traps and nets invoking images of the sea in every corner. Seating varies from comfortable padding to get-'em-in-the-thighs wooden chairs, and the restaurant looks out over a courtyard. It's all very appealing.
The brasserie menu is classically rustic in nature. Starters include steamed Cornish mussels in cider; carpaccio of salmon with cucumber relish, chargrilled long peppers with olives, pan-fried chorizo and butter beans and a plate of charcuterie with spiced carrot chutney.
Catalan fish stew; posh fish and chips (a trio of fish in herb batter with thin cut chips and lemon mayo); Sussex pork belly with Tuscan herbs with a Barolo wine sauce and slow cooked casserole of lamb with sautéed mushrooms and potatoes are just some of the mains.
There's lobster of course – and you choose which one you'd like from the vivier tank to be cooked four ways: Thermidor, natural, far East or with Indian spices. Prices are extremely low with soupe de poissons at £3.50, charcuterie at £4.50, confit de canard at £12.50, and the lobster at only £17.50.
There's also a two course four-choice Menu Patron at £18.50 and a lunchtime menu highlighting fish of the day, charcuterie, a pint of prawns and chips and a vigneron lunch of mixed meats, cheeses and salad.
Wrinkled tablecloths, butch cutlery and glasses are additions to help whisk you away to the Europe Paul is keen to share.
One sure-fire way of testing the kitchen's credentials and authenticity is to order a bowl of soupe de poissons – 'our own homemade fish soup made from locally supplied fish and shellfish served with warmed bread and aioli'.
It was rustic, simple perfection, but the aioli needed to be pepped up with far more garlic to make it completely authentic. A dish of the day turned out to be venison. How could I resist?
A rather huge venison steak complete with a red wine sauce, sautéed potatoes and a salad was astonishingly priced at £8.50. A little more hanging of the meat would have made this game-lover happier, and the dish was crying out for a superlative mash rather than the underwhelming new potatoes cut and fried.
The fine meal ended with a splendid German apple and almond pie of such moreishness that this non sweet-toothed reviewer found too irresistible to leave. Apparently, a German supplies the kitchen. They should cosset her and lavish huge praise on her. It was another bargain at £2.50. Had I gone down a time tunnel with prices like these?
Service is courteous and willing to please. The wine list is a global one with French influences – a Saint Roch red (£4) pitch perfect with the venison. Paul has triumphed yet again with his new restaurant. What will this man do next for Southsea's benefit?

The Vieux Port Brasserie at the Dolphin, 41 The High Street, Portsmouth. (023) 9282 3595. Restaurant hours: Midday-3pm and 6pm-10pm (closed Monday lunch).
Food: ****
Service: *****
Atmosphere: ****
Smoking: No
Disabled access: Yes, plenty of space for wheelchairs but no toilet.
How to get there: follow the brown signs for the Portsmouth Anglican Cathedral and Southsea, the Dolphin right opposite the cathedral. Parking on-street. Bus: 8 & 19.