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Friday, 16th May 2008

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Little Johnny Russell's, Southsea



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Why the owners of this pub, next to the Kings Theatre in Southsea, named it after the mid- 19th-century British prime minister is anyone's guess
Lord Russell, the vertically-challenged son of the Duke of Bedford, and the first Earl Russell, not only achieved the highest office in the land but also saw the 1832 Reform Bill through. The bill changed the make-up of Parliament – but what he had to do with Portsmouth, or this pub, is shrouded in mystery.
What I can tell you is that Little Johnny Russell's is a place of some character whose prime function is music and beer.
Decor is simplicity itself, there is virtually none. The large space has a long bar, groups of tables on two levels and some photos of musicians.
Whether Little Johnny liked sausages, history does not relate. But if he did, he might have gone bananas over the choice that French chef Stan Mathieu offers.
Toulouse, Polish, South African, merguez, pork, lamb and vegetarian varieties, 10 in all, grace the menu. Not only do you get to choose the type but also your mash – whether it's garlic, spring onion, red onion or one with Gruyere and chives.
Stan shows his French pedigree by also offering duck confit, boeuf Bourguignon, cassoulet Toulousain and a pancake filled with ratatouille.
But he's equally at peace with English shepherd's pie, steak sandwiches and baguettes, homemade potato wedges and Sunday lunch 'with a free dessert'.
Low prices come in at around £7 for a main course. I visited on a Monday night when the wind and horizontal rain reduced me to a sorry mess, in need of instant warm gratification. The music was loud and hot, and a glass of Argentinian red wine took the chill off. But the menu, despite the website declaring that food is available from midday to 9pm seven days a week, was limited.
The sausage menu was curtailed to just two varieties – one meat, one vegetarian – but all the other dishes were on.
I settled for the cassoulet Toulousain, a robust dish which is a mix of duck, sausage and beans. If this substantial helping wouldn't warm me up, nothing would. Although I was seated by the draughty back door to the terrace with numerable smokers pushing to come in or go out, the cassoulet weaved its magic. The rectangular oven dish brimmed with chunks of duck meat, hefty sausage and even some scrummy ham on the bone, but the beans were rather undercooked. Flecks of tomato and onion added to the whole, and a green salad was part of the deal.
Sticky toffee pudding and chocolate cake are possible desserts but, being a Monday, they weren't on show. So I went back out into the galloping wind and rain.
So, fortified by a delicious French paysan dish, aided and abetted by some hot music and wine from the Pampas grasses of South America, I was immune to the British January. Little Johnny Russell's is a funky, edible pit stop to beat the January blues – and maybe hear some too.

Little Johnny Russell's, Albert Road, Southsea. (023) 9282 6502.
Open: Seven days a week from midday-9pm for food, later for drinking.

Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****

Disabled access: Yes.
How to get there: Follow the A3 into Portsmouth centre from the M275, turn left into Kings Road which becomes Elm Grove and go across Victoria Road South on to Albert Road. The pub is on the right just by the Kings Theatre. Bus: 16, 15A, 17, 18.

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  • Last Updated: 25 January 2008 2:18 PM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Portsmouth
 
 
  

 
 


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