Robin Hood Inn, Rowland's Castle
The Robin Hood Inn, once Rowlands Castle's Railway Hotel, sits admirably and comfortably on the village green like a dowager duchess.
It was a much-loved venue for decades, and owners Yvette and Steve Mitchell closed its doors for a revamp last September. The unveiling of its new interior came in time for the Christmas trade.
The bar has been transferred to the dining area, leaving a space large enough for a 55-cover restaurant with extra seating by the bar's fireplace.
A wall papered with a fashionably large pattern now dominates the dining room, alongside some coloured glass and wrought iron chandeliers which you'll either love or hate.
Differing chairs, either reproductions or genuine 1940s and 1950s ones, group around equally-differing tables. The beautifully proportioned windows overlooking the green are now decked out in smart striped green, grey and beige blinds. Music plays rather loudly and waiting staff are decked in black.
The restaurant's new menu was created by Sophie Beckett and Derek Brockway, the chefs who were at the Robin Hood before its transformation.
Their daytime and early evening menu is a one-kind-fits-all type with mezze platters to share; Caesar salad; Cheddar ploughman's; salmon and dill fishcakes and soup of the day on the starters and light bites list. Follow these with fish and chips, spinach and ricotta lasagne, bangers, mash and onion gravy or crab linguine. Chicken, burgers, steak with pepper sauce and Thai curry are also on offer.
Many of these keenly priced dishes are featured on the Early Supper menu. There is also a chefs' a la carte menu, which might feature a risotto with butternut squash and amaretti liqueur or Welsh lamb served with a turnip gratin. The lamb dish was developed by the chefs while working in Amsterdam's Grand Hotel at acclaimed chef Albert Roux's restaurant.
So, it's a little of what you fancy then. The menu runs the gamut from A to Z with many of the world's culinary stops in between. It's just the kind of food many diners-out seek – but can the chefs do resolutely British modern food like those fishcakes as well as an authentic Thai dish?
The service being a tad on the slow side can hinder some of the enjoyment of experiencing the new, improved restaurant.
The long wait for the kitchen to get into gear caused a few raised eyebrows, and there was little communication between the staff and customers. In its defence, the kitchen cooks from scratch, as my Thai chicken and vegetable curry demonstrated. These chefs have too much pride in their work to resort to microwaves or pre-prepped dishes.
The curry, served in a heavy, deep white soup plate, was a joy, its Thai flavouring – kaffir lime leaf, coconut, chilli – coming through admirably, and the chicken tender and moist. Finely-cooked broccoli, green beans and courgettes graced the sauce as did unfortunately lank aubergine which doesn't suit this dish. If the kitchen had been able to source pea aubergines, found in authentic Thai dishes, fine and dandy. The cumin-flavoured rice, served in a separate bowl, was simply ace.
A stunning chocolate fondant oozing melted chocolate followed. The metal container's handles were a no-no to touch and should have come with a warning, as my fingers felt the scorching heat. But with such fine cooking – it also came with an admirable sorbet curled up in a stylish pastry shape – the staff are forgiven.
A lacklustre South African Sauvignon Blanc didn't raise the pulse but smiling if slow service did. The Robin Hood, thanks to its two stars in the kitchen and a good makeover, is nicely on track for 2008. Staff should just communicate a tad more to get my full admiration. My bill came to £18.60 for two courses, not including a tip.
Robin Hood Inn, On the Green, Rowlands Castle. (023) 9241 2268. Open all week from midday for lunch and from 6pm for early suppers or a la carte dinner.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Yes, the refurb includes a ramp for wheelchairs at the back of the restaurant by the car park and a disabled toilet.
How to get there: Follow the signs for Rowlands Castle from Havant going north then the signs for the village centre. The inn is at the far end of the Green. Car park at rear. Trains on main Portsmouth-London line.
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Last Updated:
15 February 2008 9:27 AM
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Source:
n/a
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Location:
Portsmouth