The Granary, Titchfield
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay has been seen around The Granary, at Titchfield and word is that he is there to film his next Kitchen Nightmares TV series.
Viewers have not yet had the chance to see what changes Mr Ramsay has recommended for this three-roomed restaurant with bar.
Secrecy around the programme is so tight that it is unclear whether he has finished his makeover or whether he has yet to return to work his magic. I hope it's the latter, for there are still giant steps to be taken. Outside, three dead trees greet the diner in the car park and the smell of chip fat is enough to put off clientele.
I like Gordon. A lot. His heart is culinarily in the right place and his desire to make chefs and restaurateurs perform to the best of their abilities is one that I applaud. I guess the owners and chefs are fending for themselves. The wine list suggests Gordon's impending return – it only offers one type of red or white wine by the glass. But the staff smile a lot and are polite and helpful.
Lunch or dinner menus offer roast Hampshire-reared Gloucestershire Old Spot pork with apple sauce; marinated Rother Valley lamb rump or free-range steak and ale pie in puff pastry, or Solent-fresh fie pie in creamy sauce with cheesy mash.
Cheeses from Hampshire punctuate a number of dishes. At lunchtime a ploughman's, sandwiches and baked potato are on the menu. Red mullet broth or open leek tart with a warm poached egg 'from our own chickens' might tempt as evening starters as well as smoked trout with watercress.
My choice, calves' liver and bacon with sage butter (£10.95 both lunch and evening) arrived surprisingly with chips and peas. They were not billed or mentioned when ordering, the menu stating Dauphinoise or new potatoes with a choice of salad or veg. Hmm. Gordon would have had a proper hissy fit – the written menu should be sacrosanct unless the diner opts otherwise.
The liver was cut with a rusty saw judging by its jagged surface and uneven cutting meant uneven cooking. It's a pity as the liver itself was tasty and mostly pink as requested. The sage butter was made with poor quality salted butter with little or no sage. The chunky chips were soaked with fat and the peas floury. A glass of Montepulciano helped to redress the balance.
Family-style desserts abound such as Discovery apple and blackberry crumble with 'fresh' custard or bread and butter pudding. 'Is the custard homemade or from a packet?,' I ask. 'If it's the former I'll have it.' Cream came instead. The huge pud sat on a soup plate decorated with swishes of caramel and raspberry. Gordon would have rightly boxed the chef's ears if he had seen the sprig of mint and a sliced strawberry on top of the bland pudding – a real no-no in his book. If they don't belong to the dish, leave them out.
I fled with clothes and hair perfumed with fat. Please come back, Gordon, and wave your culinary wand.
The Granary Restaurant and Bar, Whiteley Lane, Titchfield 01329 844466
Open: 7 days a week, food served from 11 am until late.
Food: **
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ***
Disabled access: lots of gravel for wheelchairs to navigate, otherwise access is fine.
Smoking: outside
How to get there: exit at Junction 9 on M27, follow signs for the A27 towards Fareham, turn off on Segensworth Road, then left on to Whiteley Lane. The Granary is on this road which narrows past the growth of new housing on the left. Car park. Bus: First 26 or 28.
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Last Updated:
05 October 2007 11:36 AM
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Source:
n/a
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Location:
Portsmouth