Eating in basements has rarely appealed to the British. We're suspicious of not having the opportunity to eyeball places before parting with our hard-earned cash.
It's the same with restaurants on first floors. Bashful Brits, having climbed the stairs and been greeted by staff, find it difficult to turn tail if the place has the look of a robber baron's den.
Bishop's Waltham's Wine Bar & Bistro, a converted p
ort cellar, is deep in the bowels of the town's High Street, the restaurant stretching a fair measure under street level.
Welcoming chairs and tables on the pavement, even in winter (smokers unite), catch the eye, the wooden staircase down to the place giving an equally 'come hither' wink and nod. Would it please this reticent diner? Follow me down those stairs.
The business has recently changed hands but the décor remains the same – why change it? Service is even more friendly and helpful than during a past review, a certain bashful hanging back from my young waiter was appealing. But he did the biz with aplomb once he got going.
Food here is of the 'we'll do anything for you' variety with Saturday brunch, lunch, dinners and tapas on tap.
From eggs and bacon, scrambled eggs and smoked salmon and eggs Benedict to omelettes for brunch, the lunch menu criss-crosses the tried, tested and deservedly popular with local sausage and mash, battered fish and chips and beef burger, the chef also knowing his male market by adding roast beef dip, slices of beef with warm baguette, bowl of gravy and chips. No need to look any further down the menu I bet, guys, when this is spotted. Women might be more seduced by the smoked chicken Caesar salad or the red onion and gruyere tart with salad.
Dinner offers Barbary duck with mushroom sauce, haunch of venison with a cherry sauce, cod loin with peas and pancetta, a crayfish cocktail or game and foie gras terrine or fish soup with aioli some possibles. Prices range from £6.50 for the crayfish to £17.95 for the venison with plenty of mid-prices in between.
A chunky, dense game terrine with a fig chutney (not the billed plum one), salad and brown toast kicked off my meal but I suspect a lot of chicken was added to the game equation, a layer of bacon adding to its appeal. It was very pleasant, just missing ace quality standards due to that lack of game and seasoning like juniper or bay – or pistachios for a bit of texture.
Black pudding – you either have a love affair with it or not. I am in the former camp, the pudding chunkily added to a bubble and squeak with a layer of grilled back bacon and poached egg, Hollandaise sauce gracing the whole and served in a lovely warm, large, bowl-like plate.
This moreish winter dish was subtly handled and showed that the kitchen can deliver all kinds of layered simple food with flair.
But I still prefer a large slab of black pudding to shine on its own, my only quibble alongside the Hollandaise. Was it really made from scratch?
To descend to Middle Earth – or to remain on street level? Decidedly the former at the Wine Bar & Bistro, a well-oiled and charming business.
The Wine Bar & Bistro, 8 High Street, Bishop's Waltham. 01489 894476.
Open: Midday-3pm for lunch and 6pm-10pm for dinner Tue-Sat. Sat brunch: 10am-3pm. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: No wheelchair access.
How to get there: Take the exit to Wickham and Bishop's Waltham onto the A32 off the M27. Once within Bishop's Waltham take the second exit at the 'Old Station' roundabout, then follow the road (past the petrol station and Budgens). At the next roundabout (next to the Crown pub) take the first exit into the High Street. Follow the road and the Wine Bar & Bistro is on the left hand side. Parking: on-street parking is available or there are pay-and- display car parks at Basingwell Street (short stay) and Lower Lane (long stay) Bus: 17.The full article contains 698 words and appears in n/a newspaper.
