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Sapori, Lee-on-the-Solent



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Published Date: 30 May 2008
Lee-on-the-Solent is not blessed with good eating- out experiences, those 350 takeaways in the Portsmouth area have quite a grip on its residents.
Lee councillor Chris Carter, in a recent letter to The News, took issue with me for not being able to hunt down good restaurants locally but pointed out that takeaways are 'convenient and popular'. I have trawled the Lee highways and byways on your behalf seeking, always seeking but finding little of note. Until now.
Sapori is an Italian restaurant recently opened by husband-and-wife team Louise and Francesco Sambiase. In the High Street, a stone's throw from the beach, the new owners are trying to erase memories of a previous business on this site... the food is freshly cooked rather than microwaved.
Have they succeeded? Follow me into the smartly decorated restaurant. Roman-born Francesco has chosen framed photographs of stylish Roman buildings. White tableclothes, sturdy chairs, flowers, plants and shelving groaning with coloured glass all add up to a warm, family-type restaurant which you might be lucky enough to stumble across in a Rome backstreet.
Sapori, meaning taste, goes down the authentic, traditional Italian cuisine route, the homely cucina casalinga style of cooking preferred by those who are keen on the real thing. There is more to life than pizza and pasta.
But these also feature on the menu, Francesco making pizza from scratch, the same dough is also fashioned into bread.
On the reasonably-priced menu, start maybe with melanzana alla parmigiana (oven-baked layers of aubergine, mozzarella, parmesan and tomato); chicken livers with onion, balsamic vinegar, tomatoes and deep-fried breaded polenta; Parma ham with buffalo mozzarella or home-made soup. Proceed with either pasta, a homemade tagliatelle with prawns and a white wine, tomato sauce, or one of six choices or main course meat or fish. There's baked chicken breast with goat's cheese, peppers and potatoes, salmon fillet with a vodka, prawn and dill sauce and cod with cannellini beans with oregano and tomato with polenta.
Suppli, rarely seen on UK menus, are little balls of tomato and beef ragu risotto stuffed with mozzarella with a crisp crumb outer layer. More precise cooking followed with the scalloppine di vitella, salsa limone, asparagi e patate, the veal as tender as you'll find anywhere in Italy where they value this glorious meat, the buttery lemon sauce mopped up by some of the rosemary-flavoured bread. Diced potato and asparagus slivers added a further homely dimension, the seasoning was spot-on.
Francesco makes his own deserts such as calzone gusto, a hot, folded, sweet pizza with chocolate, mascarpone and biscuits. He offers traditional tiramisu, too, profiteroles and a ricotta tart was also tempting. But I had ground to a halt with my two robust dishes, served with panache and professionalism by Louise, who expertly and singlehandedly covered all tables with calm, friendly efficiency. She knows her wines, too, an excellent Montepulciano with depth chosen.
The Sambiases, who worked in Italian restaurants in London, have cleverly judged their menu, décor and service to suit the area. Sapori will, I bet, wow even those wedded to takeaways. Be prepared to be busy, Sapori. My bill came to £21 not including a tip.

Sapori, 108 High Street, Lee-on-the-Solent (023) 9255 4646
Open: Midday-2.30pm for lunch seven days a week, 6pm-9.30pm for dinner Mon-Sat.
Food: ****
Service: *****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Yes, ramp up to door and good space in restaurant for wheelchairs.
How to get there: From Fareham follow the signs to Lee-on-the-Solent, turning right down Broom Way which becomes Manor Way and finally left into the High Street, where the restaurant is on the left. Parking on street or in the seafront public car park.


Diners' View
Susan Court and Jilly Bacon, both from the area: 'We came here for lunch and were so impressed we returned with our partners,' Susan said. 'My baked scallops with lemon were lovely and fresh.' 'My seabass with black olive mash was just right, the charming service adding a real sense of hospitality,' Jilly added.

The full article contains 697 words and appears in n/a newspaper.
Page 1 of 1

  • Last Updated: 30 May 2008 10:33 AM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Portsmouth
 
 

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