Published Date:
30 July 2009
Lord Raglan was blamed for shortages of food, clothing and warmth during the bitter Crimean War, thereby creating suffering for the troops.
He was also responsible for the destruction of British military units at Balaclava which led to the infamous Charge of the Light Brigade.
But, despite these shortcomings, he was promoted to Field Marshal. Odd how history repeats itself 150 years on.
The Emsworth pub named after him, which overlooks the River Ems and the Slipper Millpond, is a handsome flint building. But it has seen better days.
The paint is scuffed and worn and the windows by the unkempt beer garden are in urgent need of a wash. There is an air of neglect, with staff not looking desperately pleased to be on duty one hot summer's day recently. A handful of people lurk in the bar with only a few in the garden in this the busiest part of the holiday season.
The pub celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2003, the grand mound of ashes on the fireplace possibly dating back to this time. A framed article on the Valley of Death hanging on the bar wall near the darts board seems a strange choice.
Less-than-clean menus with the usual suspects – sandwiches, ploughman's, jacket potatoes and salads – are joined by basket meals. Basket meals? They haven't been around since Raglan's time. Choose from deep-fried reformed (?) scampi in breadcrumbs, sausages and chips or chicken nuggets and chips for £4.50. Or maybe order deep-fried camembert with cranberry (£4.65); prawn cocktail; cottage pie, chips and peas (£7.25); chicken Kiev; chilli; sirloin steak or grilled salmon. Vegetarians are offered spicy beanburgers, cheese and vegetable bakes or balti with rice.
There's a specials board too with the likes of beef and black bean stir-fry, chicken korma, plaice and yet more salmon. The dated menu, heavy on the carbs, confirmed a certain lack of spark to make the most of the pub and its enviable location. With its setting it should have been heaving with customers all vying for tables or a pint.
'What's the haddock and prawn smokie on the specials board?' I ask a barman who is in couldn't-care-less mode. 'Oh, that's a kind of cheesy lasagne,' was the laconic reply.
'You'll find cutlery over there,' he added, waving a hand in mid-distance, the cutlery hiding behind the dirty window in a lean-to next to the garden. Pay at the bar. And if you want a tab they'll want a credit card. Trust is absent so I paid in cash for each course, £16.25 in all plus a glass of wine.
Emsworth has some dazzling places: from cafes, tearooms and mid-range to expensive restaurants to pubs, the competition keeping many of them on their toes. Apart, that is, from the Lord Raglan: this pub could do with being taken into a new dawn of hospitality and catering.
The Lord Raglan, 35 Queen Street, Emsworth PO10 7BL 01243 372587.
Open 12pm–2pm and 7pm–9pm for food every day.
Food: **
Service: **
Atmosphere: **
Disabled access: OK
How to get there: exit on the A27 going east at Emsworth, following the road to the centre of town. Take the third exit at the town's roundabout onto the High Street, turning left onto Queen Street. The pub is towards the end of this road on the right. Limited on-street car parking.
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Last Updated:
30 July 2009 12:34 PM
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Source:
The News
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Location:
Portsmouth