A second Australian invasion

Red Claw Chardonnay 2011, Mornington Peninsula

Red Claw Chardonnay 2011, Mornington Peninsula

Pigeon with leeks and a seed and honey dressing

LAWRENCE MURPHY: Pigeon with leeks, seed and honey dressing

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It was the late Eighties when Australia’s first invasion occurred with wine that was easy to drink. It was known as ‘sunshine in a bottle’.

But in the last decade things have begun to change and Aussie wine has moved to a more elegant, complex style.

As if to prove the point, Marks & Spencer has just introduced a new range of quality Aussie wines.

Tournon Mathilda Shiraz 2011, Victoria (£12.99 down from £14.99 until June 30) is made by the brilliant M.Chapoutier. It has black fruits, spices and some lovely ripe tannins.

For Mule Viognier 2011, McLaren Vale (£11.99 down from £13.99 until June 30) the grapes are grown biodynamically. It has apricot blossom, citrus notes and a really nice lemon acidity running through it that’s not often found in this variety.

TOP TIPPLE Red Claw Chardonnay 2011, Mornington Peninsula

This may not be cheap, but it is really top class chardonnay from the excellent Yabby Lake Winery in Victoria. This is elegant, wonderfully complex wine with grapefruit and lemon. There’s a hint of spices and a nod to some oak in the background. It’s very grown-up and worth pushing the boat out for.

M&S £15.99 down from £17.99 until June 30.

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