Wine

Pigeon with leeks and a seed and honey dressing

LAWRENCE MURPHY: Pigeon with leeks, seed and honey dressing

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Chardonnay might not be our favourite white grape any longer, but it is one of the noblest white grape varieties, capable of producing great wine – think white Burgundy.

Here are three to make you reconsider, starting in... Uruguay. Yes, a first for me, but Juanicó Benteveo Chardonnay 2014 (The Wine Society £6.95) is more than a passing curiosity. Unoaked with green apple and citrus fruit, with a fresh, lively palate, it is simple, but enjoyable.

For something a little richer Kaiken Ultra Chardonnay 2013, Mendoza (Amazon, ndjohn.co.uk £13.95) delivers peaches and pineapples with a hint of vanilla. It has well-balanced acidity and a long silky finish.

Top tipple this week is Iona Chardonnay 2013, Elgin (M&S £15). World-class chardonnay produced in South Africa’s coolest vineyard. What marks it out is its fantastic balance.

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