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Annie Jones Restaurant, Petersfield
Good neighbourhood restaurants are as rare as those proverbial hen's teeth in our neck of the woods.
It is perfectly possible to count on two hands those to be found in the Portsmouth area.
Sure, there are plenty of eateries to choose from. But good ones? Ones that actually cook seasonal, quality local food from scratch and take a pride in what they do?
Petersfield's Annie Jones is one such neighbourly treasure, a true exponent of seasonal, locally-sourced produce thanks to the ambitions of its chef-co-owner Steve Ranson.
Self-taught, he has trawled through some pretty unlikely places to hone his skills – Mozambique, Namibia and Nepal to name but three. Oh, and France too, the wines on his moreish list celebrating his love of our neighbour.
His cooking these days is rather more complex than your average small restaurant, a layering of different components part of his DNA.
John Blake, his brother-in-law, is his partner.
Local ingredients include asparagus from Durleighmarsh Farm; venison from Blackmore; free-range chicken from Sheet; Empshott lamb; Hydens Farm duck eggs; pork sourced from Leg at Each Corner Farm, Buriton and fish from the Solent.
Steve has also linked up with Wild Foragers, a small outfit whose love of wild mushrooms knows no limits.
The menu offered one evening in May at the restaurant consisted of not only mushrooms, but what lurks in the hedgerows – a starter of ravioli stuffed with jack by the hedge (a kind of nettle sans the sting) and St George's mushrooms.
Main course was Empshott lamb with wild garlic puree and morel mushrooms, followed by a white chocolate mousse with raspberries and honeycomb with mint oil.
Another similar dinner is planned for the autumn, the current menu offering the likes of Durleighmarsh Farm asparagus with poached pheasant egg, black pepper pecorino zabaglione (7.50); merguez sausage with chilli garlic spinach (7.95) and chicken liver parfait with a pickled pear truffle dressing (6.95).
Continue with Blackmore venison saddle and steamed pudding butternut puree with a Banyuls jus (16.95); a lasagne of Dover sole, scallop mousse, morel mushrooms and saffron butter shellfish foam (21.95); or roast free-range chicken with asparagus, duck egg risotto and a truffle dressing (13.95).
See what I mean about complex layering?
Steve knows how to present dishes well, the stuffed ravioli looking stunning on a smart white curved modern plate, the delicate mushrooms however fighting their corner with a surfeit of walnuts in the stuffing to make enough of a triumphant impact.
The lamb, presented three ways including shredded shoulder wrapped in caul, was nothing short of excellent, the meat a remarkable dense flavour, the wine sauce beating many a chef in the area into whimpering submission for Best in Show.
The kitchen again excelled in dessert-making, the white chocolate mousse (with lots of egg white) light, the honeycomb adding a sweet crunch, the wild mint oil giving a further dash to the dish.
A striking peppery and spicy Cotes du Rhone, Domaine Chapoton went down well with the meal.
Steve has not only upped his culinary game but also the dcor in his petite restaurant, narrow church pews removed in favour of rather more plausible seating, the look comforting, colourful and utterly charming, staff remarkably well-trained and welcoming.
Come here for al fresco vine-covered dining too, his terrace and garden bar equally charismatic.
In order to succeed in this precarious business, a lot of thought, attention to detail, constant keeping on top of the game and a large dose of genuine hospitality is key to success.
This neighbourhood restaurant understands the rules of the competition – and getting it right.
But Steve stays true to himself. Coasting is not an option.
My bill came to 25.75 including wine and a tip.
Annie Jones Restaurant, 10 Lavant Street, Petersfield, GU32 3EW. Tel: 01730 262728.
Open: Tues, 6-10pm; Wed-Sun, lunch: midday-1.45pm, Wed-Sat, dinner: 6pm-midnight. Early bird: 6-7.30pm on Tues, Wed, Thurs. Closed Mondays and Sunday evenings.
Food: ****
Service: *****
Atmosphere: *****
Disabled access: Yes, but on the small side for wheelchairs.
How to get there: Take the A3(M) to Petersfield from Portsmouth and follow the station signs which will take you down Winchester Road and Station Road. Turn right past the station onto Charles Street then left onto Lavant Street. The restaurant is on the right. On-street parking.
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Weather for Portsmouth
Wednesday 23 May 2012
Today
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Temperature: 15 C to 24 C
Wind Speed: 15 mph
Wind direction: North west
Tomorrow
Sunny spells
Temperature: 15 C to 23 C
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