Blue Bell, Emsworth
Pubs are just pubs. Aren't they? Aren't they all the same, just boozers, some with food, others offering just two types of crisps and one of peanuts?
Those with their eye on the pub ball know only too well that public houses (what a quaint name) are now divided into distinct camps: the local with or without food, the gastropub serving rather smarter food, the likes of Wetherspoons also part of British culture these days to the dismay of traditionalists in love with The Real Thing.
Samuel Pepys described them as the heart of England. The Walnut Tree, East London, reportedly the first of its kind to serve ale for filthy lucre in 912.
Yes, more than a thousand years of pubdom. But recently pubs have been struggling, beer sales falling, supermarkets said to be killing off the pubs thanks to their scandalously cheap booze. Drink driving and the smoking ban were also cited as two other proverbial pub coffin nails.
But what would you rather prefer to do? Sit at home and drink beer day in, evening in out or visit your local to mix with people providing it has a soul plus decent beer and good pub grub?
The latter, of course, Emsworth's Blue Bell that kind of local which draws the crowds. How has it circumvented the deteriorating pub scene?
Tom Babb took over the place several decades ago, the pub rebuilt in 1953 in rather dull 50s brick after a wartime harbour incident. Giles Babb, his son, both dyed-in-the-wool fine mine hosts, have seen the writing on the wall. The food, cooked by Giles, one good reason for locals and other visitors to drop in, the beer an equally strong suit.
Neither see the need to gussy up the place, the lived-in look, with its sea artefacts, naval memorabilia, paintings for sale (there's a good line in nudes) and beams rescued from many a Sussex barn part of its charm.
Dining and drinking go hand in hand here, the locals propping up the bar all known by name and extensive subject matter.
'What's the name of the brewery that used to be in car park,' Tom asked, the answer swiftly coming back. And they look out for each other, 'car parking warden alert!' someone calls out. Just what locals do for one another – still.
Giles, a local food enthusiast, sources his meat from Treagusts Butchers up the street, fish from Solent Fish, Portsmouth, pork from a Funtington farm. The menu reflects this, the pork on colcannon with creamed wild mushrooms and a cider and mustard sauce one dish.
Come here for mussels; garlic king prawns; soup; whitebait; a warm salad of pigeon and black pudding with beetroot and pancetta suggesting not just any old pub grub starters.
Ham, egg and chips redresses the balance alongside fish pie, beef and ale pie; baguettes; jackets and steaks, also on offer.
Prices range from 3.75 for the home-made soup to 13.50 for the Aberdeen Angus fillet steak.
A chicken liver pate, served with frisee lettuce, small white bread squares and superfluous balsamic vinegar squiggled around the square plate, was an overly strong version of this dish, more like lamb's than the billed chicken livers, a softening of taste perhaps with melted butter or cream with herbs helping this dish along. And lose the balsamic, far too pretentious for this down to earth pub is my advice.
Giles wants to feed you up, the portions large, very large.
Two sizeable fishcakes, made with smoked haddock, prawns and mash came with spinach and a fried egg.
At just under 11, the pricing is steep, the fish content slightly below par, the peripherals fine and dandy.
Giles might wish to take a step back and ungussify some dishes, most people choosing pubs for meals
opting for simplicity, not radical fashion.
But what this fine family has is hospitality in spades, the art of keeping the pub as a focal point of society highly visible and admired.
We're a long way off of calling last orders for the pub if the Bluebell and others have anything to do with
it.
My bill, however, was quite high: just under 20 for two courses and a rather disappointing glass of white wine.
Next time it will be beer. And a pie. Or the mussels. Or will it be the ham, egg and chips?
The Blue Bell pub, South Street, Emsworth. 01243 373394.
Open: From midday-2.15pm and 6pm- 9.15pm for food every day bar Sunday evenings.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ***
Disabled access: Yes, and good space within the pub for wheelchair users.
How to get there: Exit on the A27 going east from Portsmouth then follow the signs to the town centre. Take the third exit at the anchor roundabout on to the High Street then turn right into South Street, the pub on the right before the harbour. Parking: either on-street or in the adjacent car park, both paid.
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Friday 10 February 2012
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