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Istanbul, Southsea
Turkish-Kurdish restaurants are well-established in Portsmouth, their warm hospitality part of their attraction, as is the simple food of their homeland.
Gastronomically, Turkey, a buffer between Europe and Asia, produces a wonderful mix: little mezze appetiser dishes, doner kebab, dolmasi, stuffed vine leaves and imam bayildi, literally 'the priest fainted' possibly due to the rich concoction of aubergines, onions, tomato and garlic and the sticky sweet halva.
Istanbul, a Turkish Kurdish two-tier restaurant with booths in Southsea, has moved the goalposts rather closer to Pompey, the menu now straddling both Ports- mouth and Istanbul – the all-day breakfast rearing its familiar head alongside traditional Turkish dishes.
The owners have gone over to the other side musically too, local radio blaring out inanities, instead of soothing Ottoman tones. Why the owners think that listening to people shouting about the weather and funny-ha-ha street names is a good backdrop to eating out (Manure Street, anyone?) is a puzzle.
Deciding against beans on toast, two eggs on toast, egg, bacon, chips or tinned tomatoes, the Turkish alternatives looked far more alluring than the all-day-breakfast options.
There was tabbouleh, humus or Istanbul salad from the cold starters, which also feature un-Turkish prawn cocktail and melon. Falafel, kofte and sucuk, a beef garlic sausage are some hot starters, mains hogging the platform with no less than a possible 25 options.
Mousakka, kebabs, prawns, spaghetti Bolognese, sea bream, diced lamb with vegetables are to be found. Prices range from 2.50 to 13.40.
Vegetable pickles are served as a matter of course and they were superb. These were followed by ispanak tarator, spinach with Greek yoghurt and garlic. Piped onto a small oval dish, it was a pleasing starter served with warm pitta bread.
Lamb shish kebab, 'lean, tender cubes of marinated lamb, charcoal-grilled with rice and salad' was next up, the meat covered with a thin warm pancake. When it was removed I understood why this unbilled wrap had been placed on it. Scraps of meat of all sizes, not cubes, lurked beneath. Some were tender, most were tough. The rice was watery and the salad was just about acceptable. A glass of red Turkish wine helped it along, as did the charming service by a non-English waitress.
Blurring the lines (is this a Turkish or British restaurant?) isn't helping Istanbul.
In the cut-throat restaurant business playing to the gallery is perhaps the reason for this going-local mishmash.
But why not give customers authenticity and be true to yourself?
My bill came to 14.80 less a tip.
Carol is a chef, former restaurateur and editor of Savour, the Guild of Food Writers magazine.
Istanbul, 40 Osborne Road, Southsea (023) 9275 3490.
Open: 10am – 12pm all week.
Food: ***
Service: ***
Atmosphere: **
Disabled access: Yes
How to get there: Osborne Road is off Clarence Parade, Southsea. The restaurant is on the right.
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Wednesday 23 May 2012
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