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Lilly's Tea And Coffee House, Wickham
Wickham's striking square, the second largest surviving medieval one in England, is a magnet for small businesses. The footfall is impressive because of the sheer diversity of independent shops and, of course, the varied architecture.
Butcher, baker and, er, well, OK, those candlestick makers are a tad elusive but if you want to dine by candlelight you'll fare well in the square, a restaurant or pub for every day of the week to choose from with or without a flickering flame.
Wickham's newest restaurant is Lilly's Tea And Coffee House opposite the Old House Hotel's restaurant, the latter winner of the 2008 News Awards for Best Restaurant. Lilly's joins an illustrious group including the evergreen Greens at the opposite end of the two acre square and the most medieval of them all, Wickham Wine Bar with its mural.
Restaurateurs, chancing their luck on the site which Lilly's occupies, have had mixed fortunes.
The last incumbents were more enthusiastic than gifted in the art of cooking and hospitality.
How are those who took over the old building five months ago with its very remarkable beams, brick fireplaces and panelled walls faring in comparison?
Gone are the unattractive heaters which did nothing to raise the pulse or the temperature in the larger part of the two-roomed restaurant.
Burning logs now create a warm glow, physically and psychologically, in one of the magisterial brick fireplaces. A further fireplace's mantelpiece is home to two magnificent, ornate, metal candelabras. The dcor of the room which overlooks the square is simple but ultra stylish.
A coffee machine which could double for a Wurlitzer with its gleaming bells and whistles in chrome, red and black, presides over the front room where the cakes are displayed.
For this is cake heaven. Lilly's offers a remarkable choice alongside a very comprehensive smart menu which combines British food – afternoon tea, tea house treats, cream teas, a glass of Champagne – with American soda fountain stalwarts.
Come here for sundaes, milkshakes and Lilly's Chocolate Mountain with whipped cream, chocolate shavings and mini marshmallows.
But it's not all sweetness and light. The menu offers cottage pie with cheesy mash, local sausages with bubble and squeak, jacket potatoes with imaginative fillings (crayfish, Hampshire ham) or standby beans, chicken BLTs and classic steak and onion or local cress and Marmite sandwiches.
Nursery food is represented by two free-range boiled eggs with Marmite soldiers. Soups and all savoury dishes are homemade, as are most of the cakes.
Reasonable pricing – from 2.95 for a sandwich to a main course which doesn't stray beyond 8.95 – is a further bonus in these interesting times.
How could I resist Christmas turkey with all the trimmings – apricot stuffing, chipolatas, roast potatoes, cranberry sauce?
Copious turkey slices draped over cabbage with bacon was fine and dandy, the potatoes crisp and even, the cranberry correctly tart.
Naturally, I had to try a cake, the coffee and walnut cupcake about as far removed from Mr Kipling and other bulk-manufactured cakes as possible.
Real food is what you get at Lilly's alongside genuine, smart service. The logo-aproned girls are the business.
I foresee Lilly's as one of the best prototypes of future daytime restaurants – for it is only open during the day – as it fulfils all needs with style and hospitality.
A bowl of soup? Chicken goujons with skinny fries? A terrific sandwich? A sumptuous tea for two with or without the bubbly? A sundae treat on Sunday?
A more substantial meal with a good glass of wine? Coffee and cake? It's all here.
Bag a cosy cushion-filled corner table by the fire and enjoy another admirable addition to Wickham's medieval square. This time around it's the real deal in this building of charm.
My bill came to just over 14 including a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Lilly's Tea And Coffee House, The Square, Wickham PO17 5JT. 01329 830305.
Open: 10am-4.30pm weekdays and Sunday and 9.30am-4.30pm Sats.
Food: ****
Service: *****
Atmosphere: *****
Disabled access: steps up to restaurant and one step down into main part of the restaurant.
How to get there: take the A32 to Wickham from the M27. Once in the Square, go to the far end, Lilly's is on the left. Parking, paid, in the Square.
Diners View
Sally Cox and Jamie Sampson, from Portsmouth: 'This is one of the best places around for a lovely quick or leisurely meal. The service is really on the ball and they're just all so pleasant and well informed,' Sally said. 'My chicken goujons with skinny fries and salad and chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream were all just great,' Jamie added, 'sitting by the fire is a bonus on this cold grey day.'
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Wednesday 23 May 2012
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