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Loch Fyne, Gunwharf Quays, Portsmouth
Far too many fish are on the endangered list after decades of over-fishing and deep-sea trawling that brings to the surface all manner of fish at various stages of development. Most of these are then rejected in favour of the prime, lucrative catch.
Loch Fyne, the 49-strong Scottish restaurant chain, was recently praised by environmentalist journalist Charles Clover on his fish2fork website for its approach to sustainable seafood – and the message hits you as soon as you step foot inside Loch Fyne.
The seasons board in the Gunwharf restaurant cites hake, herring, turbot, sardines and brill for autumn, with winter welcoming the likes of squid and more herring. Wait for spring for turbot, sea bass and Dover sole.
True to its word, the menu offers herring alongside line-caught haddock (for its fish and chips: 11); bream with diver-caught scallops and fennel (16); shellfish platter (35 for 2); whole plaice with a caper and parsley salsa (11) and a whole stack of other sustainable seafood including Loch Fyne's own smoked salmon (braden rost). There's duck and steak for those who favour land over sea.
Loch Fyne goes in for smart surroundings, the simpler the better, to match the cooking. Tightly-packed solid wood tables in the cream wood and brick interior overlook the on-view small kitchen (the almost galley-like space is hard-pressed to deal with a full house as I found out). There's also a large bar and seafood counter.
My waiter, Caspian, delivered my choices after quite a time. Recession? What recession? There was not a spare seat to be had.
The November 10 set two-course menu offerings included mussels; herring fillets; fish soup; chicken and honey-leather terrine followed by mackerel fillets; smoked salmon linguine, pork and herb sausages and mash or broccoli and blue cheese tart.
A small bowl of perfectly-cooked mussels in cream were fine and dandy, with the finger bowl a helpful addition. But a lemon wedge was superfluous, the cream and lemon clashing. Bread, delivered at no extra cost, needs an upgrade.
The mackerel, with its burnt skin, didn't look too appetising. But once the offending bits were scraped off, the fine, moist, meaty fish found a soulmate in a punchy thick tomato Provencal sauce. Buttery cabbage was another good addition, the baby carrots and lukewarm broccoli less so.
A Gros Plant white wine which has seen me through thick and thin at many a fish restaurant was a thin letdown. Oddly, the house wine was a far better bet.
This branch has let the side down in the past thanks to its lackadaisical cooking and staffing, some of the smart blue-and-white T-shirted staff still not trained with any degree of fish or waiting knowledge, management going down the corporate-speak route.
But there's a charming willingness previously missing. Caspian was a case in point. Coupled with a key message – exemplary sustainable fish choices – it's upping a gear. My bill came to 17 not including a tip.
Loch Fyne, Vulcan Building, Gunwharf Quays, Portsmouth 02392 77 8060
Open: Open 9–10 pm (10.30pm Saturdays and 10–10 Sundays)
Food: ***
Service: ***
Atmosphere: ***
Disabled access: Yes, including a disabled loo.
How to get there: Follow the signs for Gunwharf Quays, park in the large car park and cross the canal for the Vulcan Building.
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Weather for Portsmouth
Wednesday 23 May 2012
Today
Sunny
Temperature: 15 C to 24 C
Wind Speed: 15 mph
Wind direction: North west
Tomorrow
Sunny spells
Temperature: 15 C to 23 C
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