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Millstream Hotel, Bosham
Quintessentially English hotels are usually overhyped or visions that are seen on film but seldom experienced in reality.
But fret not, those who wish for unmodernised plush trappings, swags and empire chairs. The Millstream hotel and restaurant offers all of the above.
Set in ultra-chic Bosham, complete with Saxon church, thatched roofs, sailing club and des res weekend cottages hiding behind closed curtains, the Millstream has been a going concern for decades.
The former 18th century malthouse sports a three-roomed dining area overlooking pretty gardens with an unchanged country house dcor and feel.
The atmosphere is not quite hushed, but does verge on the reverential despite the loud voices of the English staff.
A Slovak waiter and two Japanese waitresses restored the balance with lower tones and genuine hospitality.
For years the restaurant was seen as reliable, upmarket if a trifle unadventurous. But new head chef James Fairchild-Dickson has introduced more up-to-date dishes, a changing set menu, lunch (18 for two courses, 23 for three) and dinner (22.50 and 29), offering excellent value.
Double-baked Isle of Wight souffl; scallops with butternut squash foam; cream of celeriac and honey soup might be on offer followed by silver bream with sorrel fish sauce; slow roast belly of pork with shallot cream sauce or guinea fowl with lentils and thyme.
A few supplements (2 for the scallops) dot the menu.
First up, some fine rolls baked in-house, a jug of water placed on the white tablecloth.
'Could I see the wine list?'
Apparently lone diners are seen as water drinkers here and none was offered.
It's a splendid list though, with mainly French choices, my Chilean Sauvignon Blanc spirited value at 9.50 a half bottle.
A ham hock and guinea fowl terrine with homemade piccalilli and cheesy tiny sliced roll almost hit the heights, although it was rather underseasoned and the pickle a tad too tame to balance it out.
Skate with a potato and parsley pure and basil vinaigrette sounded just the business, but failed on all counts bar the splendidly buttered crisp mange touts.
Overcooked skate is not a thing of beauty.
Simple is best, raie au beurre noir with capers a marriage made in heaven, overprocessed potatoes and smoked bacon cubes overwhelming this dish – not one of this fine chef's better creations sadly.
Dessert – possibly tarte tatin with cinnamon ice cream, vanilla risotto rice pudding with roast rhubarb and other puds – was much finer.
The beautifully strong chocolate mousse in a chocolate case with a smear of chocolate and another of ginger cream served with coffee granita was excellent – the granita short on espresso though.
For those despairing of metal, glass, noise and hype, the Millstream offers a haven.
My bill came to 35 including an expensive minuscule espresso (3.50, unobserved on the menu) but not a tip.
Millstream Hotel, Bosham Lane, Bosham, PO18 8HL. Tel: 01243 573234. Open 12.30pm-2pm and 7pm–9.30pm (Sundays 9pm).
Food: ***
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Good access for wheelchairs with no stairs involved.
How to get there: Exit at Emsworth on the A27 going east towards Chichester. At the Bosham roundabout take the third exit towards the village. The hotel is on the right past the T-junction. Car park.
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Wednesday 23 May 2012
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