South Fork, Portsmouth
If your menu is mainly cow in many cuts, it's understandable to name your restaurant after a fictitious Texan ranch.
South Fork conjures up steers being branded and oversize T-bones being eaten by wranglers (cowboys, not the jeans) for breakfast after a round-up.
But, oddly, the restaurant in question is right by Southsea Marina, without a prairie in sight. And It's owned by the people who run its upstairs neighbour, Bombay Bay.
The dcor is anything but ranch-like, more hip than homey. No calico cloths, ropes, cowboy hats. The name merely reflects some of what's on the menu.
But there are very comfy upholstered bucket chairs, with views of catamarans rather than cows.
You want your rump, sirloin, rib eye, fillet or T-bone rare, medium, well-done, black or blue? You got it – although locals like their steaks cooked to within an inch of their lives.
There is other grub on the menu. Very uncowboylike salads, surf & turf, lamb chops, grilled chicken, a mixed grill, merguez sausage and an Ambassador's Cut (fillet with avocado and chilli butter at 18)).
A nod to South Fork's location comes in the form of sea bass, scallops, prawn cocktail, salmon and a sea food platter.
Traces of Indian-Bangladeshi dishes also come into play; fish cakes served with a chilli sauce and grilled chicken with a parsley, coriander and jalapeno sauce joining piri piri chicken.
Wishing to test the kitchen on two counts, those homemade fishcakes and chicken from the grill were ordered.
Service was exemplary and two huge fishcakes arrived with superfluous iceberg. Rather off-putting size-wise, they were surprisingly light and moreish, the moist fish and crispy exterior a fine starter ((4.50).
That grilled chicken (10.50) was up next, and. I defy you to track down a more succulent piece of marinated, criss-crossed chicken beaten breast . The coriander sauce equally good.
The tomato was left, as were the okay mushrooms, in favour of the meat and some of the best fat, perfectly-cooked chips to be found on the south coast.
Excellent bread, garlic butter (complete with whole clove) and olives were served with an acceptable glass of Sauvignon blanc.
Homemade desserts, however laudable – crme brulee, chocolate torte, sponge pudding at 4.95 – weren't taken up, two courses being just fine.
This recently-opened restaurant may be seen as out of the way, but it's only a short run from South Parade Pier. Is it worth the detour? Dang right!
My bill came to just under 18 including a glass of wine but not a well-deserved tip.
South Fork, Southsea Marina, Fort Cumberland Road, Portsmouth PO4 9RJ
(023) 9281 7493
Open: Tues-Thur 5 pm-10.30pm and Fri-Sat noon –3pm and 5pm–10.30 pm
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: South Fork is on the ground floor with plenty of space for wheelchairs.
How to get there: Go east along Southsea Esplanade to Fort Cumberland Road. You will get to Southsea Marina and South Fork is on the left past the boats. Parking is available.
Carol is a chef, former restaurateur and editor of Savour, the Guild of Food Writers magazine
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Friday 10 February 2012
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