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The Royal Oak in East Lavant
Arecent Restaurant magazine survey on what we like and dislike about restaurants threw up some predictable views (we prefer tablecloths to plastic covers) and some surprises.
For instance, themed eateries get a big thumbs down, 98 per cent of those taking part being decidedly unimpressed with the likes of Tex-Mex, Medieval tomfoolery or overtly cheesy Spanish themes.
But what we do like are smart, casually-dressed waiting staff (82 per cent), quiet but friendly service (57 per cent), warm, inviting dcor over contemporary (87 per cent vs nine per cent) and somewhere with a fabulous view over town (57 per cent vs 28 per cent).
Disturbingly, we find children a nuisance, to our shame, with 40 per cent preferring no little ones. I wonder what our European cousins would think of this attitude towards the next generation of eaters-out?
How does the Royal Oak in pretty, pretty East Lavant, with its flint cottages and South Downs backdrop , fare in the tick boxes? Ticks galore for the waiting staff, the dcor, village with views double tick, those children treated with the respect they deserve by offering smaller portions of any dishes on the menu to under 10s.
Otherwise, if they don't eat out how will they learn that patience is a virtue, learn about different food, to listen and join in on the conversation?
The Royal Oak has been on the gastronomy route for a number of years. It's a small pub of distinct character – the fireplaces, the beams, the flint walls inside and out – and a secret which locals and others who have found it guard jealously. But a new broom has taken over the place, so how does it rate these days?
First up is a basket of classy bread with French butter and olives, the latter not top-notch quality, the former needing more time in the oven.
The menu is pricey, 'appetisers and light orders' ranging from 6.75 to 11.75, mains from 13.50 to 23.50. You get plenty of choice and description, each entry a metre long.
Start maybe with West Sussex pork and rabbit terrine, fig chutney, warm toast and salad leaves; seared Scottish scallops with pancetta, butternut squash puree and sage butter; duck spring roll, oriental salad with sesame dressing and a sweet chilli sauce or wild mushroom risotto with char-grilled baby artichokes and shaved Pecorino.
Mains are equally wordy with the likes of guinea fowl with black pudding stuffing, potato and bacon rosti, wilted kale and red wine jus; baked fillet of halibut with Savoy cabbage and smoked salmon, crushed potatoes and a mild horseradish sauce or smoked garlic ricotta polenta cake with char-grilled halloumi and harissa spiced aubergine provencale.
Ribeye or fillet also join the ranks as do dishes on the specials' board, a twice-cooked veal belly confit with beetroot, carrots, mash and Madeira jus stopping me dead in my tracks. Veal belly? How wondrous. As readers of this column know, pork belly and I enjoy meeting up, veal sadly not as it is almost as rare as hen's teeth in this sainted land of ours, a quick trip to Europe satisfying my needs.
For those not keen on the less delicate parts of the animal this may be a reality check too far, those loving fat and tender flesh lapping it up with gusto. Cooked to a good standard, the only downside was the overly processed mash, earthy beetroot going well with this robust dish as did a fine glass of Oz shiraz from an impressive wine list.
Hampshire ice creams, crme brulee and cheeses or glazed lemon tart with hedgerow compote and mascarpone might get your attention. The latter, despite assurances that it came from the kitchen and not a manufacturing unit, had undercooked pastry, the filling not zingy enough for this lover of zesty lemons.
The Royal Oak is one of those fine quintessentially English pubs which fits the bill in many ways, decidedly worthy of a detour for those not fortunate enough to be able to walk to it. Who needs themes? Those two per cent who do should resist coming here.
My bill: just under 25 not including a very well deserved tip for charming, genuine Polish/English service.
The Royal Oak, Pook Lane, East Lavant, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 OAX. 01243 527434.
Open: From midday-2pm and 6pm-9.15pm (last orders) all week.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Steps up to the pub, narrow entrance.
How to get there: Once in Chichester follow the signs through the town past the Chichester Festival Theatre to Midhurst on the A286, turning off just before Lavant to East Lavant at the roundabout past the Esso garage. Keep on this lane, the pub past the church on the left. Car park on right.
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Wednesday 23 May 2012
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