The Bird in Hand, Lovedean
The Bird in Hand's name, derived from medieval falconry times when the bird in the hand (the falcon) was worth more than two in the bush (the prey), is not the only fascinating aspect of this Lovedean pub.
It was also home to the FA Cup, the popular quiz question being 'which team has held the FA Cup for the longest period?'
Hands up those who got it right - Portsmouth won it in 1939 and kept it safe at the pub until the competition started up again post-war.
Footballers and falconers would be hard-pressed, I reckon, to recognise the pub these days.
Upmarket is the name of the hospitality game thanks to the smart 2009 refurb.
More restaurant than pub - there is a welcoming bar for locals who prefer to drink - it's well and comfortably furnished.
Fireplaces lay dormant on a cold winter's day, but the loud trad jazz was stirring.
The menu is decidedly ambitious with the likes of salt cod fritters; rabbit terrine with sherry dressing; pork belly with oriental dressing; monkfish in Parma ham with pearl barley and chorizo risotto with vanilla cream; cauliflower and leek potato cake alongside comfort food (gammon with pineapple; braised beef cobbler).
Prices range from 3.50 for soup to 14.95 for steak. Sandwiches and brunch food are imaginative additions including bacon and cheese croissants.
Venison, when on a menu in December, doesn't stand a chance of neglect, a pie as large as a falconer's mitt winging its way via one of the many excellent staff who actually know their business.
Apart from adding up, that is. More on this later. But they bring no-charge ace bread and thyme and lemon butter.
The stately pie, sitting on top of rather oversweet braised red cabbage and slightly watery potatoes (mash would have suited this dish), was rather magnificent, the pastry crust thick and moreish and covering tender venison and mushrooms. A dark, dense, deeply satisfying sauce ringed it.
But where to go on the menu after such a gargantuan pie?
The heart-stopping desserts don't afford any let-up girth-wise, no light puds offered.
Chocolate bread and butter pudding, apple tart and ice cream, Baileys profiteroles with warm chocolate sauce or winter berry crumble anyone?
I ploughed on with the latter, a whole pack of berries, possibly frozen, used for this marathon uber-sweet dessert with killer chocolate ice cream.
Now, the bill for my food and a glass of Shiraz. 'That will be 22.50,' said one of the charming staff. It seemed high.
Did I query this? Only when coming to write up my visit.
When contacted, they added the extra 3 charged by mistake to the pub's charity box. So it is always worth checking.
The Bird in Hand, Lovedean PO8 9RX. Tel: (023) 9259 1055.
Open: Noon-3pm and 6pm-9.30pm (Mon-Sat) 11am-7.30pm (Sun)
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: One step down once inside the double front doors
How to get there: From Portsmouth, take the A3(M) off the M27 towards Petersfield, exiting at Jct 2 on to the B2149. Follow this road towards Cowplain and Horndean, then signs leading to Cowplain. At the second roundabout, take the A3 Portsmouth Road then right on to Lovedean Lane. Large car park.The Bird in Hand, Lovedean PO8 9RX. Tel: (023) 9259 1055.
Open: Noon-3pm and 6pm-9.30pm (Mon-Sat) 11am-7.30pm (Sun)
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: One step down once inside the double front doors
How to get there: From Portsmouth, take the A3(M) off the M27 towards Petersfield, exiting at Jct 2 on to the B2149. Follow this road towards Cowplain and Horndean, then signs leading to Cowplain. At the second roundabout, take the A3 Portsmouth Road then right on to Lovedean Lane. Large car park.
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Weather for Portsmouth
Saturday 11 February 2012
Today
Sunny
Temperature: -4 C to 4 C
Wind Speed: 8 mph
Wind direction: East
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