The Ship Inn, Langstone Harbour
The Ship Inn, right on Langstone Harbour by the bridge to Hayling Island, has one of those locations which most publicans and their bosses would die for.
It's unmissable and a large car park is an added bonus. The Fullers pub, once an 18th century grain store with original wheel on view, is a large building with a pleasant, comfortable bar and restaurant.
For those hardy enough to withstand a British summer's day in August – it was cold and windy when I visited – the pub has plenty of tables under an appropriate sail outside.
Fullers brewery management have turned a corner regarding the food and put their heart and soul into this side of the business, a new regime demanding higher standards than in the past.
It's not, however, immediately apparent where they conceal their grub and what the deal is.
People were waiting at the bar for their turn only to find that the food ordering hides behind the staircase.
There's an impersonal feel to ordering: bag a numbered table, queue to order giving your name (but no rank and number although it feels like it) and pay.
Then queue to buy a drink at the bar and then, finally, you can sit down and relax.
Or can you? Fullers prides itself on its wine, but a Sauvignon Blanc was soapy and undrinkable.
I queued again to change it and tried all four white wines, but none came up to scratch.
The patient barman was highly considerate and helpful, but I settled for sparkling water. Next time it might be Fullers Pride.
Fish is the pub's speciality, the specials board only dealing in piscine dishes including sea bass with salsa verde; whole plaice or trout; salmon with a mushroom sauce. The written menu also pushes the boat out with devilled whitebait (5.35); a pint of prawns; peppered squid; fish stew (12.95) and peppered smoked mackerel.
Or go for horseshoe gammon steak, sirloin, macaroni cheese, Greek salad or steak and mushroom pie with a huge puff pastry hat.
Whitebait with roll and salad was first up.
Fullers believe in huge portions.
If the girth of the nation is fashioned by our pubs, restaurants and takeaways, we don't stand a chance as the plate's contents were able to satisfy three diners' first course wishes.
But they might have left out the dull brown hot dog roll and the superfluous salad.
Just the fish, tartare sauce and a good lemon wedge, thanks.
The huge fish stew took a while to make an appearance. The tomato and onion thick base had oodles of salmon, white fish but decidedly overdone prawns.
It was tasty enough, the microwaved stew blow-your-top-off hot.
Some Fullers pubs are really making great strides, their sincerity and willingness to achieve pub food heights deeply encouraging. Now for the wine……..
My bill came to just over 21 for two courses and a drink.
The Ship Inn, Langstone Harbour, Havant PO9 1RD
023 9247 1749
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
How to get there: A27 east from Portsmouth, exit at Havant and follow signs for Hayling Island, the pub on the left just before the bridge to the island. Car park.
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Sunday 12 February 2012
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