The Wine Vaults, Southsea
Southsea's Wine Vaults is a much-loved institution, with a series of five casual bars sprawled throughout this colourful building opposite the Kings Theatre.
It attracts beer fans and theatregoers, plus those seeking casual meals and Sunday lunch.
In 2006 it received a coveted Pub of the Year award. But how is it doing three years on?
Those beer drinkers were perched at several tables in one of the downstairs bars on the evening I went.
Bar staff were in playful mood. 'When the cat's away' came to mind.
Only one girl seemed to take her job seriously, ticking off badly behaved staff as she came over to serve.
But just why has 'you awright there?' crept into hospitality lingo?
The immediate wish to say 'no' keeps bubbling up when asked this daft question. A simple 'hello' and 'can I help?' would do just fine.
I soon had a glass of almost acceptable Sauvignon Blanc. Then I looked at the specials board showing pork belly with cubed rosemary potatoes, apple sauce and vegetables for 7.95.
A menu revealed simple dishes: fish and chips; hoummous; BLT; jacket potatoes; goat's cheese and filo parcel; beef or chicken burgers; ham or cheese ploughman's; Caesar salad; Greek platter and a ribeye steak, most dishes around the 8 mark.
The Wine Vaults goes in for real ales, eight usually available including Jack Boxer and the funny ha-ha Dogfather. But no wine list was forthcoming despite the name of the place.
You can eat anywhere in the five bars – my choice was the largest bar set up as a restaurant. Its quirkiness was compounded by non-matching chairs and tables under a red painted tongue-and-groove ceiling, a high wall decorated with framed wine labels.
My ordered pork belly arrived, the chef (is there a chef?) possibly throwing it on the plate from a great height. Some of the meat was quite good, but I left the burnt bits. Those billed cubed potatoes tasted stale and a rough swede mash, overcooked broccoli, boiled cabbage and a poor tinned apple sauce did nothing to raise the pulse.
The message is clearly 'take it or leave it.' I left it.
Desserts all appear to be bought in.
A cheesecake with a lurid pink pattern was not of the edible kind.
New staff coming on duty lifted the bar, these waitresses helpful and amiable.
But why did the pork now cost 2 more? 'The wrong amount was put on the board,' came the answer.
The Wine Vaults, with its eccentric layout, has a great charm.
New staff are apparently in place since my experience there a few weeks ago. May it rise again to take the title of Pub of the Year, a good chef making all the difference to its fortunes. And no larking about. My bill came to around 17.
The Wine Vaults, 43 Albert Road, Southsea PO5 2SF 02392 864712
Open for food from 12 – 9.30 pm every day.:
Food: **
Service: ***
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Fine for wheelchairs in the restaurant part.
How to get there: Albert Road is accessed by Victoria Road North from the north or Victoria Road South from South Parade, Wine Vaults opposite the Kings Theatre. On-street parking.
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Saturday 11 February 2012
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