Tiffin Room, at the India Arms, Southsea
The India Arms in deepest Southsea reminds the passer-by of a rather more spectacular age when pubs were lavished with a lasting, distinctive decorative design, the Victorians keen exponents of grand gestures even on a small scale.
It was restored to its former glory a few years ago, the three beautiful tiled framed murals given pride of place within the restaurant part of the pub.
'They're worth a packet,' confided the loquacious, friendly manager, the bucolic scenes of Victorian and Edwardian gentlemanly pursuits of huntin' and fishin' somewhat at odds within the very Indian-Bangladeshi restaurant setting with its exotic hanging tasseled materials, thrown pots, wrought-iron lanterns hanging on one wall, miniature carpeting in the throes of being loomed in frames on a facing wall.
It's a curious mix but it works, diners at the handsome tables catching glimpses of dart players in the pub.
The music leaves you in no doubt that you're being transported to the sub-continent, the Indian-Bangladeshi singing, a mix of old and new, quite breathtakingly brilliant – and loud. Try not to dance. It's impossible.
Tiffin is, as those who read raj historical novels and watch raj-themed television or films know, a word that denotes a light repast between lunch and dinner.
Previous owners named it Tiffin, the menu reflecting more a series of lighter meals rather than the standard Indian-Bangladeshi dishes on the current one.
The new owners are serial restaurateurs, their current – and growing empire – encompassing Gandhi, Bombay Bay and other eateries.
Traditional dishes such as madras, vindaloo, korma, dupiaza and other favourites are pushed down the menu, the owners and chefs preferring that you notice rather different options, Tiffin-rajlike names adding to the sense of time and place.
Where else in the area would you find Dak Bungalow Special, grilled aubergines with onions and green chilli masala or Hill Station Chicken, green chillis, ginger and crushed peppercorns covering the bird?
Why, there's even Victorian Beef, billed as fillet marinated in 'special spices' and 'dressed on a cumin and saffron mash', a real East meets West mishmash.
Start with perhaps crab Malibar, the crustacean prepared with onions, green peppers and potato ((4.95); onion bhajis; beguni murgh (sliced aubergine wrapped around spicy chicken); maghso daka dim (whole egg coated with spiced minced lamb) or tomato rasam, a lentil soup with fresh coriander (3.95).
Main course specialities and regional dishes run from just under 7 for the likes of chicken or lamb tikka to just under 13 for grilled swordfish, spiced duck breast or sizzling beef.
Grilled Sea Bass ('mouth-watering fillet of sea bass matured in a rich spicy marinade of coriander, garlic, a trace of olive oil then delicately grilled, the epitome of culinary excellence') lived up to part of its over-the-top billing, the fish wonderfully spicy and well-cooked, the ornamentation – orange slices and tomato – totally superfluous.
The Victorian Beef followed, a culture clash of some magnitude, the mash not going with the rather tough but strangely moreish beef thanks to its fine sauce.
I doubt that it was fillet, the coarse-grained meat another part of the animal.
Why have a mound of rice on the plate too, however well-prepared it was? One or other, methinks. Carrots, beans and broccoli, with added spice and well-tinged garlic, added a welcome crunch.
Emily Bronte's Wuthering Heights has been given an Indian makeover in a London theatre, Heathcliff and Cathy transported to Bollywood, The Times critic commenting 'It's bleak on the Mumbai moors'.
Tiffin ain't bleak – on the contrary. It has many attributes including a great atmosphere, some very decent cooking and charming service. But you just wonder if the owners have strayed on to an off-beam stage or film set, however genuine their undeniable Occidental-Oriental intentions. But I certainly prefer it to some ultra-modern Indian soulless you-could-be-anywhere restaurants.
My bill came to just over 22 including a Cobra beer but not service.
Tiffin Room at the India Arms, 30-32 Great Southsea Street, Southsea. PO5 3BY. (023) 9275 3058.
Open: 6pm-10pm every day except Tuesday. (But do call for opening times as I was given many different timings, the signage on the restaurant exterior and on the website at odds with verbal information.)
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: ****
Disabled access: Yes. Good space for wheelchairs.
How to get there: Find your way on to the Kings Road, turn right into Castle Street then right into Great Southsea Street (one way). On-street parking.
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Saturday 11 February 2012
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