Here are some reds to accompany autumnal game | Alistair Gibson

This is the time of year when a whole bookshelf’s worth of new cookery books are released in time for Christmas.
Bourgogne pinot noir la chanfleure.Bourgogne pinot noir la chanfleure.
Bourgogne pinot noir la chanfleure.

I have to be honest that I do get quite excited by the thought of this as for me wine and food go hand in hand.

Nigel Slater is a food writer I follow closely and I read recently, as he releases a new recipe book, that autumn is one of his most enjoyable times of year to cook.

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There is no doubt that autumn brings an abundance of seasonal fare to the table and part of that is game.

Game birds are back in season and venison is considered to be at its best in the autumn months, so here are some wines to go with autumnal game dishes.

Pinot noir and in particular red Burgundy is perhaps most associated with game but of course this can be expensive, so it is nice to be able to recommend an affordable pinot noir at this time of year.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir La Chanfleure 2020, Louis Latour (Tesco £15) is a very attractive, approachable wine from one of the region’s most well-known producers.

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The nose is quite aromatic with red soft fruits and dark cherries, along with some savoury notes in the background, the palate is fresh with more red fruits, ripe tannins and quite a long almost peppery finish.

This is a really nice introduction to red Burgundy, it’s not particularly complex but would certainly make a lovely match with a simply roasted game bird.

If you were going to do a one pot dish or casserole with pheasant or partridge then Rosso di Montalcino 2019, Banfi (Majestic £19.99 or £16.99 as part of a mixed six) would be a perfect partner.

In many ways this is a mini Brunello di Montalcino but made in a more approachable style, it is 100 per cent sangiovese and aged for a period in French oak barriques.

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The bouquet is quite dense with dark hedgerow fruits, roasted coffee, dried herbs and a little vanilla spice, the palate is really well balanced with more dark fruits, bright acidity and a touch of mocha on the finish.

This is really delicious and you could continue later in the meal and pair with some hard cheeses.

Torres Salmos 2017, Priorat (Fareham Wine £21.50) is a blend of cariñena, garnacha and syrah, aged in new oak barrels and would make a wonderful match with venison.

Priorat is a bit of a cult region south of Barcelona and is known for its old vines, planted on slate strewn steep slopes, producing dark, intense wines.

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The nose offers chocolate, black cherries, ripe plums and wild herbs, the palate is full bodied with great depth of flavour, firm but ripe tannins and a long finish.

This would benefit from decanting for an hour or so and would also match beautifully with an oxtail casserole.

A message from the Editor, Mark Waldron

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