A different kind of white Christmas with festive wines | Alistair Gibson

It may not be the Christmas that many of us were expecting and there will probably be a few less magnums of wine being opened around our smaller gatherings, but in many ways, my thoughts on festive wines remain much the same as always.
William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru VaillonsWilliam Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons

I’ve never believed that Christmas is the time to open your most treasured bottles – there are just too many distractions to really appreciate something special. That is not to say however that you should not treat yourself to some really nice bottles and when it comes to white wines, you need a good all-rounder in the fridge, a crowd pleaser, albeit it for smaller crowds this year.

Sauvignon Blanc remains ever popular and can work well as both an aperitif and with lighter dishes such as fresh seafood. Unsurprisingly there is a huge selection on the shelves but my choice this year would be Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Elgin (Hermitage Cellars £9.75 on offer from £12.65, Bush Vines £11.25 on offer from £12.99) which is a wine that manages to straddle the exuberance of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and the more elegant, mineral led wines of the Loire Valley.

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It is wonderfully fresh with grapefruit, clementine and a little lemongrass. Really delicious and more than enough to refresh even the most jaded of palates into Boxing Day.

White wines for Christmas lunch itself have traditionally revolved around Burgundy and I think that after the year that we’ve had a sense of tradition is no bad thing. Viré-Clessé 2018, Vieilles Vignes, Christophe Cordier (Majestic £16.99 or £14.99 when part of a mixed 6) is produced from older vines which together with a little ageing in oak barrels gives a wine with a little more depth and richness than often associated with the Macon region. The palate has a touch of creaminess along with some fleshy, ripe fruit and some minerality before a very complete, long finish. This has enough weight to happily partner roast pork or turkey.

Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2018, William Fèvre (Waitrose £25.99) is from one of the most respected producers in Chablis and a lovely treat for Christmas Day.

This is very fresh and still youthful but is textbook Chablis with orchard fruit blossom, citrus and minerals on the nose, the palate is beautifully balanced with crisp acidity and some nice notes of minerals on the very long finish. The classic combination with oysters but could also see you through to the turkey.

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