Batala encontro 2023: Why 280 samba-reggae drummers from around the world gathered in Portsmouth

​When you experience Batala, you more than likely hear them – or even feel them – before seeing them.
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With dozens of drummers at a time playing to the samba reggae beat and wearing their distinctive black, white and red uniforms, they are hard to miss. And the Portsmouth band are a familiar site at events across the region – from the Great South Run, to Pride, to various festivals, carnivals and fairs.

A year ago Batala Portsmouth so impressed Eurovision star Sam Ryder when he saw them at Victorious Festival he invited them to join him on stage during his set.

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This year the local group were again at Victorious – this time with more than 200 fellow Batala drummers from around the world as part of the week-long 2023 “encontro” or “meeting”, an annual gathering which is hosted by a different band each year.

Batala Portsmouth hosted an international encontro of 280 drummers from 14 different countries from August 22-27 2023, seen here at The Historic Dockyards.Batala Portsmouth hosted an international encontro of 280 drummers from 14 different countries from August 22-27 2023, seen here at The Historic Dockyards.
Batala Portsmouth hosted an international encontro of 280 drummers from 14 different countries from August 22-27 2023, seen here at The Historic Dockyards.

Batala began in Brazil in 1997 as the brainchild of percussionist Giba Gonçalves. From the start he encouraged others to take his format and it is now an international movement with 46 bands across the globe, with nine here in the UK – and the Portsmouth band is one of the longest-running, having begun in 2001.​

Lindsay Holloway is the musical director for Batala Portsmouth, a role he’s held for six years, but he joined 12 years ago. His story of how he came to Batala is typical of many.

"I used to work on the seafront in an office and one morning during the Great South Run I heard this almighty racket and thought, goodness me, what's that? I went out and it was the Batala band playing, so I immediately rang them up and said: “You can probably hear yourselves in the background but I need to be in this band – what do I need to do?”

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He joined the beginner’s course, “and that was it… since I found this there's been no turning back.”

From left: Cait Nordehn, from Washington DC; Nichole Allem, from Washington DC; Celeste Marin, from DC, but now lives in Dublin.From left: Cait Nordehn, from Washington DC; Nichole Allem, from Washington DC; Celeste Marin, from DC, but now lives in Dublin.
From left: Cait Nordehn, from Washington DC; Nichole Allem, from Washington DC; Celeste Marin, from DC, but now lives in Dublin.

This year’s encontro featured 280 drummers from 32 bands in 14 countries – America, Canadian, Mexico, Brazil, France, Spain, Portugal, Netherlands, Czech Republic, Poland, Austria, Greece, England and Wales.

“We all play the same music, wear the same costumes, same drums, same everything, so it's one big family when we get together.”

And from The News’ experience of speaking to drummers before they performed in the Historic Dockyards during the encontro, Lindsay’s not wrong when he says: “It's the same for everybody – no one joins without hearing Batala first, and it is a real primal feeling that drums bring out in us, and there's nothing like it. When it's with a group of this size, it literally gives you goosebumps when you hear it and to be a part of it is a real privilege.”

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Jenny Haigh of Godalming has only been in the Portsmouth group for six months, but she also came to them via the Great South Run.

Hundreds of samba drummers from the Batala encontro arrive on Southsea Common for Victorious Festival 2023Hundreds of samba drummers from the Batala encontro arrive on Southsea Common for Victorious Festival 2023
Hundreds of samba drummers from the Batala encontro arrive on Southsea Common for Victorious Festival 2023

"I saw them there and went: 'I need this in my life, who are you, what are you? How can I make this in my life?' And they told me I could try out in either Portsmouth or London because I live halfway.

"I get such a rush from it – it makes me so happy, and meeting these people, these people are fantastic. It's my happy place.”

Ryan Livett, from Havant, had been in a samba band at school, but gave it up when work and life got in the way. The 26-year-old’s love for the music was reginited when he caught Batala at Victorious: "Now I've come back full circle to samba.

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“I just love it, I've got the bug, it's as simple as that. It's the atmosphere, the people. Whenever I've been in a band, it's been about 30-40 people, today we're drumming with more than 250 - I can't even comprehend it.”

Some of the Greek contingent, including Dimitris Koulis, 30, from Athens (second from left) and Danai Katrisioti, 25, from Crete (centre).Some of the Greek contingent, including Dimitris Koulis, 30, from Athens (second from left) and Danai Katrisioti, 25, from Crete (centre).
Some of the Greek contingent, including Dimitris Koulis, 30, from Athens (second from left) and Danai Katrisioti, 25, from Crete (centre).

Charlotte Twine, from Portsmouth, has been in the band for 11 years. For her travel has been a big part of the experience – she even ended up living in Spain for three years thanks to Batala.

“You meet so many people and the amazing thing about it is that because we all play the same music, even though we're all from different countries and speak different languages, you get on a drum and you can play the same thing and you can connect.”

While some performers boast a musical pedigree, others do not – and the movement welcomes all.

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As Celeste Marin, from Washington DC, but now living in Dublin, says: “I have no musical background, but I like loud noises!”

But she also appreciates the community aspect: “It's a lot of intercultural relations, but also community – there's just nothing like being in a huge crowd and playing this beautiful music together even if we don't live near one another. And it’s also about bringing the Afro-Brazilian music to the broader community during our shows.”

And Cait Nordehn, also from Washington DC, has been a member since 2011.

Jenny Haigh, 38, from Godalming and Ryan Livett, 26, from HavantJenny Haigh, 38, from Godalming and Ryan Livett, 26, from Havant
Jenny Haigh, 38, from Godalming and Ryan Livett, 26, from Havant

“I had a good friend who was in Batala, and he told me: “Cait, you have to check this out – this is made for you.” So I went to one open call and I haven't left!

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"I love performing, that's what I’ve done my whole life, in theatre and dance, and this was another opportunity to do that with amazing people from all over the world.”

Also among the visiting groups was Danai Katrisioti, 25, from Crete, who was in the UK for the first time, but she says: ”​​​​​​​It's a way for us to travel – they're all considered family – when you feel the beat, and you see our costumes, I know he's a friend, there's a connection I would never have imagined."

Dimitris Koulis, 30, from Athens, has been playing for six years and aims to meet every band around the world. He adds: “It has been the best six years of my life because I found a thing that motivates me, and lets me participate in events like this and you can travel around the world and play music.”

To find out more about Batala go to batalamundo.com.

For Batala Portsmouth visit: batalaportsmouth.com.

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