How creative ideas are helping Portsmouth pubs see upturn for first time in 15 years

THE decline of pubs and bars with closures rife has been well documented since the turn of the millennium.
Jazmin Rimmer tries an edible balloon at The Alchemist. Picture: Sarah Standing (211119-1914)Jazmin Rimmer tries an edible balloon at The Alchemist. Picture: Sarah Standing (211119-1914)
Jazmin Rimmer tries an edible balloon at The Alchemist. Picture: Sarah Standing (211119-1914)

But the steady decline has finally been thwarted after data from the Office for National Statistics (ONS) revealed an upturn in the number of small pubs and bars for the first time in 15 years.

In fact, the overall number of pubs and bars in the UK increased by 315 (a 0.8 per cent increase) between 2018 and 2019 – the first increase for a decade.

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It seems the thirst for punters to hit pubs and bars has been whetted by savvy owners getting creative and tapping into a broader selection of tipples, thereby making establishments exciting by offering more than what has ever traditionally been available.

Shannon outside The Four-Ale TaproomShannon outside The Four-Ale Taproom
Shannon outside The Four-Ale Taproom

The Four-Ale Taproom, the first micro-pub and craft beer bar in Gosport, opened 18 months ago when the UK’s youngest landlady pitched up at an old butcher’s shop determined to offer something different.

Shannon Bull, just 20 years of age at the time of taking the plunge, has seen that decision pay dividends with the pub going from strength to strength with its unique appeal.

Her dad Simon Bull, who helps out in the pub, said: ‘We offer 12 specialist beers and ciders which we change every week, which is probably more than a lot of Wetherspoons offer.

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People don’t want to drink Doom Bar all the time and see the same drinks. They want to try different things and be challenged.

There has been a slight upturn in the number of pubs in the UK - the first increase in years 
Picture: GettyThere has been a slight upturn in the number of pubs in the UK - the first increase in years 
Picture: Getty
There has been a slight upturn in the number of pubs in the UK - the first increase in years Picture: Getty

‘You need to bring more flavours and make it exciting for people. What’s fun about coming back every week and seeing the same beers?

‘We encourage people to try the different drinks we have, which they perhaps wouldn’t necessarily pick. But after trying the drink they are normally very impressed and glad they tried it.’

The pub caters for all tastes and is a fine example of how delivering beers with delicious flavours and exciting marketing can leave drinkers hooked.

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‘People really enjoy the small craft beers we have. Our most popular drinks are probably an English bitter and golden ale,’ Simon said. ‘Lots of people like a good hoppy IPA and American craft beer.

‘We find that on Friday and Saturday evenings the younger generation will be drinking the craft beers while in mid-week the beer drunk by older people tends to be more traditional.’

Other touches that go down a treat include how drinks are served. ‘We pour beer straight from the cask which people like because it is the original way beer was served,’ Simon added.

While the Taproom does not offer food, the pub’s modern creative approach is highlighted by it partnering with a nearby restaurant to provide a burger bar on a Thursday night.

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As for the rest of the time, just order a takeaway and eat in the pub.

‘We give people a knife, fork and plate,’ Simon said. ‘When I used to go to pubs and wanted something to eat I would have to finish my drink and leave the pub before going home.

‘But this way people can stay here. Why would we not want to encourage people to stay?’

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This approach represents a new wave of forward-thinking pubs and bars which could be behind the comeback.

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Figures, though, are still well down on former glories days of the early millennium according to the ONS when there were nearly 39,000 pubs and bars with less than 10 staff in 2001. Compare that to 2019 and there were just under 23,000 of the equivalent sized places across the country.

Interestingly, the figures also reveal that pub and bar enterprises now employ more people serving food than people working behind the bar. In 2003, bar staff accounted for roughly four in 10 employees and those serving food (that is, chefs, cooks, waiting staff, kitchen and catering staff) made-up roughly three in 10 employees.

Since 2016, the opposite has been true with those serving food outnumbering those working behind the bar.

The Alchemist in Gunwharf Quays offers both food and drink but prides itself on an innovative approach aligned with a personal touch that keeps people coming back for more.

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‘We try to be creative and do things differently,’ restaurant manager Mikey Rigby said. ‘We do things like offering customers a masterclass where we show them how to make cocktails and put “fire-ups” in drinks and desserts with smoke going around the whole table. People love it. It all adds to the fun experience.’

Keeping things fresh is another key part of the establishment’s armoury. ‘We offer a wide selection of food and drinks but change the menu every six months,’ he said.

But The Alchemist bucks the trend of the statistics when dividing up its bar and restaurant staff. ‘We have more part-time staff for the restaurant and more full-time staff for the bar. A lot of skills are needed for the bar and training is intensive. Staff need to really know the full menu before they can serve customers,’ Mikey said.

With an environmentally friendly approach including using biodegradable straws and menus and donating £1 of every food bill to charities, The Alchemist is another flagship for innovation. ‘People like how we look after them. We also have the wellbeing of our staff at heart too,’ Mikey added.

PANEL

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Figures show the number of pubs and bars in Portsmouth have fallen by 29 per cent between 2001 and 2019. Havant has seen a reduction of 39 per cent in the same period, Gosport a decline of 27 per cent and Fareham 25 per cent.

Despite seeing a fall of 60 pubs and bars in Portsmouth since 2001 (210 pubs down to 150), in 2019 there were more jobs in the city’s industry with 2,000 people employed – marking a 14.3 per cent rise.

Havant has seen a drop of 25 pubs (65 pubs down to 40). The town has also seen an increase in the number of jobs in the industry with there now 600, marking an increase of 20 per cent.

Gosport has also seen a decrease in the number of pubs, with there 15 fewer (55 pubs down to 40). But 12.5 per cent more people are employed in the industry – with there now 450 jobs.

In Fareham there are now around 15 fewer pubs than in 2001 (60 pubs down to 45). There are around 800 jobs in pubs and bars in the town, which is 14.3 per cent higher than in 2001.

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