Wagamama, Gunwharf Quays: Food review

Normally the Dish Detective would be hesitant to visit and cast judgement on a chain such as Wagamama, of which there are 149 in the UK. However, only one of these is in Portsmouth – Gunwharf Quays – and since the arrival of a new and promising vegan menu, DD felt it justifiable to visit and take a dip into some of the pan-fried Asian dishes inspired by the flavours of Japan.

On arrival DD and their companion were greeted warmly by staff and directed across the canteen-style dining area to a spot overlooking the Solent and – because this particular night was one when Storm Eunice was about to hit her destructive stride – the vigorously flapping masts of boats and the tables and chairs outside various venues ready to take flight.

Our waiter, who was particularly chatty and attentive, took our drinks order, one large peach iced tea (£4) and a large tropical smoothie (£4.95) – not vegan as it contained honey – and then proceeded to scribble our table number on each menu in a particular style that anyone who has visited the restaurant before knows to be distinctly Wagamama.

We began with a favourite of mine – edamame beans (£4.50) – a simple yet pleasing palette cleanser and not an unhealthy start to a meal, except perhaps for the generous coating of salt. Feeling decadent, we then decided to proceed on to our starters. I had chosen sticky vegan ‘ribs’ (£6.75) and my companion, the crispy fried squid (£7.25).

The mushroom and soya protein chunks, coated in sweet and spicy sticky sauce, sesame seeds, and spring onion were exactly that – sweet and spicy with a very decent attempt to replicate the rich and chewy features that meaty ribs are known for.

Aware that I was technically on my second starter and in an effort to leave space for my main, I reluctantly left a few pieces. However my plan to leave room was quickly derailed when I was offered one of my companion’s shichimi spiced squid balls, with chilli and coriander dipping sauce. These tender and sizeable portions of squid were enough to persuade me and if I hadn’t been looking forward to my next course, I would have ordered another round.

Our mains came quickly and the portions did not disappoint. I went for the yasai katsu curry (£10.25), a vegan twist on the popular chicken katsu curry, which offered a sweet potato, aubergine and butternut squash meat substitute, coated in panko breadcrumbs and fried. A filling and tasty dish which came with a side of sticky white rice and salad.

My companion ordered the grilled chicken ramen (£10.50) accompanied by seasonal greens, fermented bamboo shoots – known as menma - and spring onion, in a rich chicken broth.

Fuelled by intrigue about the desserts Japanese cuisine would present, I alone - my companion maintained they could not eat another morsel – ordered the banana katsu (£6.50) for dessert. Of course, when the crispy fried banana, with a side of vegan miso caramel ice cream and toffee sauce arrived, my companion’s hunger miraculously returned.

This prompted a rather undignified fight over the last piece as this unique Japanese dessert was something akin to sweet toffee heaven.

Wagamama, already considered a staple Japanese favourite, has now gone up in the Dish Detective’s estimations. Not only for it’s freshly-made and prepared food, but also it’s wide vegan offering which makes an admirable and admittedly uncanny effort at replicating meat dishes that would please the taste buds of vegans, vegetarians and meat eaters alike.

A message from the Editor, Mark Waldron

Subscribe here for unlimited access to all our coverage, including Pompey, for just 26p a day.