PS Waverley: What it’s like to travel on the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer

With almost 80 years of history, the world's last seagoing paddle steamer offers an opportunity to experience sailing as it used to be with trips leaving from Portsmouth.

On board the paddle steamer, there are plenty of places to sit. Perhaps the most interesting is the cosy lower bar, where the only view is the water gushing by the tiny portholes, powered on by the paddles. As you settle into the comfy benched seating, all you can hear is the sound of the pistons powering you on.

Another good spot is the engine room, where you can stand and watch the crank shafts spinning round and the con rods pumping up and down. Through the potholes opposite, you can see the wheel turning and the water being thrown up. It's mesmerising!

You could feel the heat, see the steam and smell the hot oil. And it was equally as interesting when it all came to a halt while we were stationary at Ryde. There is a dining room where delicious breakfast rolls are served until 11am then lunch including fish and chips from midday. They're a jolly crew and the food is tasty.

Also on the main deck is the Jeanie Deans Bar, named after Waverley's older sister, a paddle steamer that served on the Clyde from 1931 to 1964. The promenade deck has a tearoom at the stern and an observation lounge at the aft end. Both were popular and it was difficult to find a seat.

But we were blessed with a perfect day for sailing so we sought a seat outside. The top deck was packed but there was plenty of seating elsewhere. By lunchtime most people had settled in their chosen spot, so it's worth deciding early where you want to be.

Our trip had to be slightly altered due to work on Yarmouth Pier, which turned out to be a blessing, really, as it meant we completely circumnavigated the Isle of Wight.

Chris Phillips gave fascinating commentary as we travelled around, going clockwise from Ryde. He said: "It is absolutely brilliant conditions, we couldn't have asked for better light."

Visibility was so good, in fact, that we had the rare opportunity to see as far as Portland Bill, 35 to 40 miles away. Highlights of the trip included the white cliffs at Shanklin, the sloping strata of the red cliffs, Gore Cliffs and the Needles. We also witnessed the erosion after the rock falls on December 9 last year.

As we headed into port back on the mainland, we passed P&O cruise ship Britannia and again swapped greetings. We were told to be saluted by both HMS Queen Elizabeth and MV Britannia, unprompted, was high praise indeed.

As we disembarked at Southampton, to catch our coaches home, the sun was setting and there was a beautiful red sky, the perfect scene for a fond farewell.

PS Waverley bookings can be found on her website.