Restaurant review - The Buccaneer, Harvester in Fareham: I went to a pub that has stood the test of time

The advertising slogan of the 1980s turned into a comedian’s punchline by the end of the 1990s, but mainly because it had become so recognisable. It would be a stretch to say that Harvester was a pioneer, but it’s not that much of a push to say that many big chain pubs are like Harvesters now – the world has definitely leaned towards the chain pub; plenty of space, welcoming to children and churning out huge amounts of food to a recognised template up and down the land.

In answer to that first question, though, the Dish Detective in truth would reply: ‘Yes, but not for a while’. And the first thing that we were delighted to see was that the Harvester salad bar has returned after the pandemic. During Covid we feared for many things: the health of our family; the risk of future viruses; the country’s economy; our children’s social skills; our job’s future and so on, but we also had a percentage of our brain that was worried that buffets might be doomed. A proper hotel help-yourself breakfast remains one of mankind’s greatest inventions, and the Harvester salad bar, free with every main meal, is tremendous fun.

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It’s absolutely mad and you are pretty much guaranteed to eat a combination of food you will never attempt to concoct anywhere else. Just go with the ride and pile up cucumber, sweetcorn, pineapple, raw onion. creamy potato salad and coleslaw on top of each other, throw some blue cheese sauce on top of that and garnish with a combo of bacon bits and fried onions. Trust me.

We went to The Buccaneer, off The Avenue in Fareham, for a family meal out. After indulging in salad we settled down to the main event – some hearty pub food. The children, as they always do, went for fish fingers, chips and peas (£5.99 for a meal and a pudding, so not bad value) and no complaints there.

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I eschewed the (admittedly tempting descriptions of) meat on the menu and chose grilled halloumi skewers (£13.99 for one, a fiver to add another) which came served with chips and a flat bread. With the extra skewer it was a big plate but a good one. You specify which sauce you want the skewers drenched in, and I went for the naga chilli, rather than the tamer sweet chilli, peri peri or bourbon. It was pretty hot… but not to be regretted. The cheese on the skewers was alternated with padron peppers, those tasty little green fruits that scorch beautifully under a grill and work so well with hot sauce.

My companion, not knowing which meat direction to jump in, opted for a bird surf and turf (£18.49), which comprised a steak, prawns and a chicken breast. The prawns were tasty but too small, she said, although the chicken was excellent – succulent, firm, tasty, spot on. Sadly the steak was very much on the chewy side and most of it was left. I tried a bit and agreed – a lovely grilled flavour but even a small piece led to jaw-ache.

A Caramel Crave sundae (£6.49, and ordered in a fit of greedy jealousy after seeing a tray of puddings pass by) was delicious, the sweetest of sugar rushes feeling like a real treat. An apple and blackberry crumble (£5.99), though was less successful, the crumble dry and powdery, the fruit not soft enough.

The old adverts for Harvester date from a time when eating out was a treat and a privilege, only happening on people’s birthdays or celebratory events. It’s become far more the norm now, although rising prices everywhere may put a halt to that. Our bill, which included only one alcoholic drink – a pint of Peroni – was north of £70, which most of us certainly can’t afford on a too-regular basis.

Looking back at one of those old adverts, the words ‘Nobody does things the way we do at Harvester and when you look around, you’ll see why there's nowhere else like it. Harvester – eating out has never been so good.’ None of those really ring true any more, but that’s not to say there isn’t a place for a Harvester in today’s world. Because we all need a bowl of mad salad sometimes.

The Buccaneer, Fareham

Food – 3

Ambience – 4

Value – 3

Child-friendly – 4